Glixal High Performance Racing Clutch Assy with Clutch Bell for GY6 125cc 150cc 157QMJ 152QMI Engine Chinese Scooter Moped ATV Go-Kart

Works flawlessly in my gy6 150 buggy. I did change factory red 2k springs to the blue 1k springs, before installing. * I didn't want to change my low speed engagement from the buggys factory style. But I still wanted that little extra performance.. this fits the bill beautifully!! Amazing engagement right off the bat, (no slipping!! At all *nicely balanced and no noise or shuttering while into and out of the throttle. Topped it off with a new quality Kevlar belt and cleaned the rollers out and it's set to go racing again. Worth the money for sure. *if changing spring like I did make sure to watch a video first, this spring is under a hell of alot of pressure and can hurt you!! You will also need a impact gun and a 1.5 inch socket or roughly a 38mm

Time will tell how the clutch holds up but my initial experience is excellent using this cluth as a performance replacement for a 161cc 1qmk gy6 fuel injected UTV engine found in a trailmaster 200EX. I also used the the high performance variator (13g weights) sold by the same company and a new gates power link belt. Whole package off Amazon cost just around $90 for these three parts and made my trailmaster a different vehicle altogether. Much better power much quieter initially all parts seem excellent.

Didn't see any problems with clutch assembly. Installed easily and works good. Kinda wished they offered one with the 1500 rpm springs as the 2000 turns out to be a little high for my 125cc scooter. I will change out at some point but if that had been an option I would have picked that.

Definitely upgrade over stick harder launch good performance fit perfect gy6 hammerhead le150

My old, stock clutch was slipping more and more often lately so I tried this out and what a noticeable difference in take off. No more slipping and shaking! My scooter has a fast take off now. Thanks Glixal!

Great value. Get this and the cvt kit and you'll notice a big difference

Ok so a few things to note here. First thing I did was take it apart and see which ramp the pins were in. From the factory they are in the “aggressive” ramp. I installed the assembly as built and noticed the clutch was grabbing at idle. It felt like a muscle car with a lopey cam. The whole scooter was shaking until I put the rear brake on. I thought the clutch pads might be too thick but they weren’t touching with the engine off. I decided to try the “normal” ramp so I disassembled it and swapped the pins. The clutch was no longer grabbing and everything worked well. So here’s what was happening. The aggressive ramp affectively increases the rom of the rear pulley because it starts at a point where the belt is lower in the pulley. This makes the clutch start to engage early. Even if your engine rpm is 1000, the rear pulley is higher. This might make you turn the idle down. DON’T! These need to idle between 1100-1200rpm. The reason is twofold. One is to keep the alternator charging and two is to keep the oil flow correct. Lower idle will cause the oil to just drip through the system and you will wipe the cam. Long story short, if you have some serious setup or don’t plan to idle long, than keep it the way it is. If you have a somewhat stock setup (just weights ect.) than you’ll have to disassemble this and swap the pins. If the clutch is grabbing at idle it will wear itself out quick. This will also glaze the clutch bell as others have stated. Update after a few weeks of riding with the clutch. It felt like it was slipping so I decided to swap my old one back in to see if it was the clutch or the belt. Well I got the clutch off and looked at it. It was only riding on half the clutch bell and 1/3 of the clutch shoes. I don’t know if it’s the bell or the shoes but either way this is not going back on the bike. At least I can use the spring because the rest of it is junk.

Worn quick

Perfecto y de muy buena calidad