POWERTEC 120V Magnetic On/Off Switch, 9 Amps, Push Button Switch Easy Contact for Fast Power Off,Fits Table Saw, Router Table, Drill Press, Bench Saw, Bandsaw (71355)

Received the switch in less than 2 days, it came nicely packaged. Originally bought it for my Router table, but since I use my Table Saw more, I decided to put it on the saw. Installation was easy and straight forward. It works well and is well made. I was concerned there would be flex in the paddle when you hit it to turn off, buy it is nice and solid. I have had PowerTec switches on my Table saw and Band saw for years, just no the paddle ones. The paddle is great, no fumbling around when you are shutting the saw off. Will be adding 2 more, one for my router table and one for my band saw.

Great product. Works perfectly as designed. This is he second purchase. The first works so well, I’m going to use the second one for another machine build.

Perfect replacement for Delta 36‑725T2 magnetic switch!Fits perfectly in housing. Just make sure to review and follow the included wiring diagram. I made a ‘jumper’ and soldered in place for the mag switch lead to the common prong.Looks and operates just like the original switch.

I installed this on a bandsaw using a motor drawing 13A at 115vac and a table saw using 7A at 220VAC.The GOOD:Easy to wire: The switch contacts were labeled on the case making it easy to wire.Works with 220vac. It has 2 throws so one can switch both hot and neutral or both phases of a 220V line.The start button has a very positive detent and the stop paddle works great.Paddle or button: The stop paddle is easily removed for ease of installation or if you just want to use the stop button vs the paddle.Good Value: At only about $11 they are inexpensive.The BAD:Unreliable: I had one switch fail at 3 months and a replacement at 18 months when wired for 220VAC on a table saw. Powertec will readily replace but the hassle of reinstallation is annoying. I bought a spare this time as they are so inexpensive.Deep Body: The switch is deep, too deep to fit a standard electrical box. I purchased a box that was deeper and then there was room for the body of the switch along with the wiring and its connectors.Screws Dont Match Electrical Box. Also the screws supplied do not match the threads of a standard electrical box. One needs to replace the screws with long screws that will thread into box.Screws dont line up with Electrical Box. Also the screws don't align perfectly with a standard electrical box spacing but it is close enough that the screw can get started and eventually snug up.

I put my first one on my table saw 6 years ago and couldn't believe how much safer it made it. Wish I had added it sooner. But the real cost was for the wiring job. I put a large box on the front of the saw making the paddle easily accessible. And I added a 16 gage extension cord so an extension was never needed again. It took a few hours, trips to electrical supply companies for commercial grade electrical hardware, and $25-50 in hardware. Then again, I dabbled in power engineering in college (i.e. you don't have to do all that). It lasted 5 years (3-4 in occasional weekend use and a year of hard use) before it failed. This replacement is an identical match meaning replacement is a simple matter. So I bought an extra one to have on the shelf. But then again, I might find another tool worthy of a paddle safety switch.Looking at the price I can't complain. And I hope I don't have to test it but reviews say the company replaces infant mortality - devices that fail in the first few months. So let's face it, 20 amps / 2 hp creates a quite an arc when it is switched. The next increment in switch technology that could handle this much power can't be afforded by most people. So this is great value for the dollar. And at the end of the day, <$20 for insurance that I don't loose a finger is worth it.Only warning I would give is that it does not de-energize when power is cut off. You need a more expensive / different switch for that. This doesn't matter that much on a table saw where the impact of it being on when you plug it in will more likely give you a heart attack than present a serious safety issue. But on something like a router table where the router is intentionally left on all the time, this could matter. If the switch is accidentally left on, it could power up when plugged in or come back on if there is a temporary loss of power when you are expecting it to be off.

Works great but you need a deep electrical box to mount the switch

Was not a direct fit for my tile bridge saw, had to manipulate cut out in control box and old switch didn't have the power off relay wire, had to find a compatible terminal small spade connector. It is so much easier and safer now that I no longer have to plug/unplug cord for start/shut down.

The switch works perfectly. I initially wired it wrong and it acted as a dead man switch not staying on. But after digging into to wiring diagram for the tool i was swapping the switch on i found the problem. It would have been easy had i been swapping the switch directly but someone previously bypassed the blown switch to keep the tool running.