Gigabyte GA-H87N-WIFI LGA 1150 Intel H87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard Mini

Coolermaster Elite 120Corsair 8gb x 1 @ 1600mhzLG 24x Multi-DVD-RWCorsair 430watt CX Modular(Modular is the best way to go for smaller builds or people who enjoy cable management)i5-4430Samsung 840 Pro 120gbThis is a machine built for my previous boss. A small time gaming rig with other uses mixed in. He plays World of Tanks and wanted an upgrade from the 1-15fps he would often have. So far the build has allowed low-medium settings for World of Tanks @ 30fps with more and less at times, using the iGPU.The overall of the machine is quite nice. It went together nicely. The plugs for HDD LED, PWR swtich, RSW reset switch, are hard to maneuver into place while the board is inside the elite 120 as the side fan of the elite 120 gets in the way.The elite 120 has semi-poor cable storage, which is why the modular PSU helps out a ton. But the overall of it, the elite 120 worked well for this ITX. Stock fan also fit just fine.The concern about this motherboard though, is after I completed the build and installed windows 7, the wireless card was detected but no drivers could be found or installed. I restarted the machine and used the CD again, to no success.I had to go to the actual driver page from Intel to download the Centrino 2230(IIRC) drivers before it worked.The UEFI on this board is very easy, and typical of any UEFI you find today. Most settings are already in place for you. I personally on all motherboards for all peoples' computers I build, disable the Intel Quickstarts, smart connects, IR ports, firewire ports, and double check that the Legacy USB is enabled. Check to see if any OC settings have been changed(proof it was owned before you got it, very frustrating) and check that AHCI is enabled. On previous gigabyte products that I have never reviewed but did have BIOS and not UEFI, the AHCI option was almost never chosen by default so by habit I also check AHCI settings.Overall this board hasn't had a single issue, boots a little slower than some biostar boards I have used, but in the grand scheme works well.A flexible board that offers the new socket, fits into small HTPC/small gaming machines with ease, has built-in WiFi(a little annoying to get setup), and has 4 Sata ports. Sure it doesn't have thunderbolt, but thunderbolt isn't making as large of waves currently as suspected. Given a year or two, thunderbolt will be much more mainstream, but given the cheap price and if you don't add a discrete graphics card, you have the option to upgrade to thunderbolt through the PCIE slot(potentially, not 100% sure).The wifi antenna is also magnetic, but just a single antenna with a Y-cord connection.This board accepts the new Haswell Intel Pentium G3xxx(LGA1150 of course)up to the i7-4xxx. A large range of choices for those who know what they need in CPU power.I hope this helped. I would be happy to answer questions/comments.

This board seduces with its many features. There is dual HDMI, dual LAN, 6GB SATA, USB 3, multiple hardware RAID options, and WiFi and Bluetooth. All in an ITX form factor and at a reasonable price. That alone should worth 4 or 5 stars. Unfortunately, the first board I receive was DOA, murdered by the 'boot loop' to which others herein have referred.On my board the problem was memory slot DDR3-2, the outboard slot. With both slots occupied I had the loop, with only DDR3-2 occupied (with either memory stick) I had the loop, but with only DDR3-1 slot (the inboard slot) occupied (with either memory stick) the board booted. Aha!Since there are a couple of BIOS options dealing with memory interleaving and the like, my next thought was to change these from the default of AUTO to a manually selected option. Unfortunately, unless both memory slots are occupied the ability to change the default is greyed out, but with both slots occupied the board won't boot. Ha, ha! There is an option to "restore optimized defaults". That made no difference.Amazon (I never shop anywhere else) sent me a new board, without question, even before I returned the first. The second board booted up first time and after a 48 hour test burn in has performed flawlessly.Mostly, the reason I am only giving 2 stars is a reflection of the Gigabyte corporation's lack of quality control and technical support. Quality control has been commented on by others, both here and in other forums. It seems to be a crap shoot whether one gets a bootable board. I don't think I'll buy Gigabyte again. The only reason I did it this time is I wanted to build a Hackintosh and Apple uses Gigabyte boards.Update -After a year and a half the board will not boot. It could be a few things, but judging by the error message I suspect another problem with memory. Definitely, the last Gigabyte product I buy.

This Mobo works very well but I got ultimate loop problem too. Its strong and durable. Wifi and blutooth range are good and I like to magnet antenna desing. Sound chip works good and clear. Bios interface clear and user friendly also its dual bios. When I get ultimate loop problem my mobo bios crash couple of times and second bios rescue the motherboard automaticly.How do I Solved Ultimate Loop ProblemI dont know speaking English very well sorry about that :) I try to tell how do I solved this problem. First I do not know it is work for other peoples computer loop problem all risk is yours.When I get this problem I tested everthing inside the case but i could not find any problem. Then I reserch internet but I could not find any usefull hint. But when I read about this problem I saw many reviewers using same as my computer case ( cooler master itx series ). I checked all front panel cables. Behind the power button there are 3 cables ( 2 cables on top and 1 cable on bottom ) and I saw bottom cable was looks like smashed ( this cable for power button light ) and I cut this cable. Second thing I take off front panel usb 2.0 connector and problem solved, motherboard and system works very well and I dont have any problem.

bought this ITX case because it was absolutely perfect for what I was looking to do.However, the pc wouldnt boot and after taking everything apart, I found out one of the ram slots wasnt working.When I place a stick of ram into DDR3_1 the pc just goes into an infinite loop and cant even make it to post.Still... I settled for 8gb instead of 16 and kept the motherboard.I do however plan to buy more of these. I will buy one more and if that one has the same problem, then I will find another ITX board. But if that one is fine, I will restore the remaining 2 stars and buy 3-4 more boards.

ADQUIRÍ ESTA PLACA A TOP TEN ELECTRONICS (ACTUALMENTE TOP TEN GLOBAL) DE MADRID, ME SIRVIERON EN FECHA PERO DESPUES DE VARIOS INTENTOS DE CONSEGUIR LA FRA DE COMPRA PARA DESGRAVAR EL IVA, RECLAMADA TANTO AL FAMOSO TOP TEN (POR NO DECIR TOP SCAM) COMO A AMAZON, NO LA CONSEGUÍ, AMAZON LES DIO DE BAJA COMO VENDEDOR.PARA REMATAR, LA PLACA NO FUNCIONA ( TIENE 5 MESES) Y EL FABRICANTE ME OBLIGA A TRAMITAR LA GARNTIA CON EL DISTRIBUIDOR AL CUAL NO CONSEGUÍ NI SU FACTURA. HE PERDIDO EL 100%, NO SOLO EL IVA.HE APRENDIDO QUE NO COMPRO MAS PLACAS GIGABYTE YA QUE EL FABRICANTE ES ESCUDA EN QUE GESTIONE LA GARANTIA EL MAYORISTA, Y TAMPOCO COMPRARÉ EN AMAZON SI NO ESTOY DISPUESTA A ASUMIR EL RIESGO DE PERDERLO AL 100%, PUESTO QUE AMAZON NO GARANTIZA TAMPOCO LOS PROVEEDORES QUE DAN DE ALTA PARA QUE CUMPLAN LO MÍNIMO DE LO MÍNIMO (UN JUSTIFICANTE DE COMPRA COMO LA FACTURA).