Sashco 14004 Gallon Clear Roof Sealant

So I purchased 4 quart containers of this sealant a few years ago with intentions to do some repairs that were actually not necessary following some roof reconstruction. That said, this stuff sat in my shed for around 4-5 years before I had a chance to use it (not climate controlled - full swing of weather in the NE). I was afraid that like caulk tubes this very expensive purchase would be a loss but I was pleasantly surprised to find that all 4 containers stayed viable!I had a small leak in my roof SOMEWHERE that I could not pin down. I decided to just hit every possible infiltration point with this sealant and see (roof vents, waste line vents, a few cracked shingles, etc.). Well, one of the spots I hit must have been the leak point because months later there's no further leak evidence even following some pretty horrific rain storms.I am so happy with the results that I wanted to share a few things I learned while using this sealer.1) I see a lot of people recommend foam brushes for this stuff, but I would counsel getting short utility paint brushes instead. My asphalt shingle roof would have shredded the foam brushes and the traditional bristles of the utility brushes I purchased let me really get into the cracks with the sealant. Also - the bristles are a bit stiffer than many foam brushes - good for getting the last of the sealant out of the jar, especially as it starts to cure.I used a 2" wide brush (with 1" long bristles) which just fit into the mouth of the quart jar. I got a box of these things for peanuts a long while ago and still haven't run out of them.2) A note about the curing... some other reviewers mentioned getting gallon containers instead of the quart size containers. Do this ONLY if you are going to use this stuff all at once and relatively quickly. I was very careful to recap my quart jar as I moved about the roof and I still barely got to the bottom of the container before it started to gel up to the point it became unusable. Unless you have a big project, get a bunch of quart size jars so that the most you will use/lose per job is one quart.Plan your job ahead of time so that you will spend the least amount of time after jar-open.3) Plan to lose what you don't use. I carefully re-capped what little I had left in the last quart jar I was using - even did the "breathe into the jar for CO2 layer" trick and the stuff still completely cured within hours. Once air gets into the jar the timer starts ticking.4) Be careful cleaning up. I got this on my extension ladder, jeans, shirt, shoes, etc. I was wearing work clothes and work gloves so no problem there, but you would NOT want to get this on anything you care about. One unexpected bonus - the work gloves I was wearing now have a water resistant side - the sealant coated the palms and fingers of the work gloves and they are still flexible and workable!5) Be aware that this sealant is somewhat shiny when cured - so if your roof is visible from ground level, the repair patches will be noticeable if you're looking. It's not "ice in the sun" shiny, but on an asphalt roof it stands out. I don't care because anything was worth nailing that leak, but it's something to take into consideration.The net sum is that this sealant really works, sticks to anything and everything, and is still pliable and well adhered almost a year later after being applied to a swept but weathered roof in full exposure to the elements. I can only hope that it lasts until it's time to re-shingle the roof again.

Awesome stuff. If you have a metal roof, keep a can on hand.This stuff has saved my ass so many times. Sprinkling outside, a roof leak starts up. Heavy rain in the forecast.Grab a can of it, a brush, and a towel.Climb up on roof in rain, dry the spot. Apply generously. Leak stopped!I wouldn't leave that repair in place for the long haul, but as a temporary emergency patch, it is substantially better than a tarp

This is great stuff. Patched the leak in the roof. Stood up against the heat & storms we had a few days later.

Good product works very well

This is a great roofing solution unless you need a new roof. This was a good price too.

I first used this product about a year ago. I used it on a roofing or flashing or brick mortar leak on a 1920's house's chimney. There was some sort of leak in or around the chimney and/or on the roof around the chimney. It was obvious that previous owners had tried at least three times to fix the leak with a variety of products and methods, including lots of traditional black roofing cement spread all over and some very strange and badly designed home-made aluminum flashing. This leakage had done substantial damage to the ceilings and walls around the chimney inside the house. Neighbors reported that previous owners had been experiencing leaks for at least five years, and had tried a variety of DIY repairs.One of the biggest problems with roof leaks -- especially one like this one which was on a complex section of the roof and where a lot of different materials meet -- is that it is often hard to figure out where the leak is actually coming from. In this case, the chimney was made of bricks, the roof was asphalt shingles, and flashing galvanized steel and aluminum. Any badly caulked joint between these various materials, or cracks in brick mortar or existing caulking or roofing cements, could be the source of a leak. To further complicate this situation, the chimney was installed about two feet down one side from the ridge without a "cricket" or sloped flashing being installed where the highest side of the roof and chimney met. This created an area where water could actually pool against the brick chimney surface.There were so many potential areas where the leak could be coming from, that I had no idea of what the proper repair -- other than tear the whole area apart. In reality, I was planning on eliminating this chimney entirely and last winter installed a new high-efficiency furnace which vents through the wall. I also plan on replacing the gas hot water heater with a high efficiency unity, although the old one is only a few years old and works well, so this replacement might be a few years down the road. Once the hot water heater is replaced, we will not need the roof chimney any more, and it can be eliminated. At that point I can cap off the chimney since there is no other uses for it. The roof on the house will need to be replaced in 5 - 10 years, and I plan to have the chimney taken down to below the roof level, eliminating the need for a chimney penetration on the new roof, and simplifying the roof in the process. I could have had a contractor do major chimney and flashing repairs but this would cost more than the high-efficiency water heater and would be work that would have no practical use once everything is switched over to high-efficiency equipment, Instead, I bought a quart can of this product, hoping to seal things up good enough to prevent leaks for a few years when I am ready to put a new roof on.When I saw this product and read other reviews, I thought "maybe this will get me through the winter anyway". I took the can of sealant up on the roof and (using an old paint brush) applied a coating of this product to any and all cracks or problem areas I could see. The fact it was clear kept it from being as visible from street level, and it adhered well to all the surfaces and areas I needed to seal. Some were in the mortar joints in the chimney itself, some were in the bizarre flashing around the chimney, some were in the way the shingles were applied. Were ever I saw a place that had gaping holes or cracked roofing cement or bad fitting flashing, I applied some of this product. The product was very thick, and was easy to apply, but people using it should wear chemical resistant gloves and have some old rags or very heavy paper towels with them incase they spill some where they don't want it. It should not be permitted to get on the skin. Another thing that is obvious is that you should clean away any loose or crumbly materials or they get into the sealant and could affect the bond.A year has past and not a drop of water has come inside after I completed the sealing job. I used the entire quart sized can, and towards the end was prioritizing to apply the product to the worst looking (or most likely) sources of leaks. Somehow, even without every crack or problem area treated, I managed to seal the actual problem areas. I bought another can this summer and will go back up and apply it to the remaining potential problem areas around the chimney, then look for other areas where it might be useful.Both times I have ordered this item, the box was badly crushed, and the can deformed, but not leaking. I am surprised that Amazon does not attempt to package this can better since it obviously is supposedly potentially dangerous -- the reason it must be shipped via ground transportation method.