Helicoil5334-14 Save-A-Thread Thread Repair Kit M14 x 1.25

Worked GREAT !!!!! >>> Buy this this confidence!!!

Used it on a power washer worked perfectly highly recommend

Replaced spark plug threads in a Kawasaki lawn mower engine that was made of cast aluminum. Worked as expected and mower now has about 20 hours since replacement. Runs great. I had previous experience with using helicoil thread replacements.

I've only used this doing an aluminum head spark plug hole, so I can only give my opinion on aluminum blocks. It was very easy to use. Just insert a 3/8 drive extension the link you need into the combination tap and reamer And then you can attach a ratchet if you like but I chose a 3/8 drive t handle setup so I could put equal pressure turning without putting too much tension laterally on the tap. Just like any other standard tap you do have to back out after a turn or two to clear the thread. If you're trying to do this with the head still on, You're going to want to put some thick bearing grease heavily on the tap to catch any metal shavings and be sure to back it all the way out about every three full revolutions clean it off and go in again. You won't eliminate all shavings from getting in , but the small amount left is pretty easy to get out with a pic with grease on the end and then finally swap to a shop vac with a makeshift piece of small tubing on the end the vacuum down in the cylinder. Check it with a borescope to be sure. You need to install this with a high temp rtv sealant. I went with the permatex That's good to 750° f. I believe I read in the comments somewhere a person saying these inserts were plastic.... Hopefully that person looks at one of my pictures of my special plastic magnet holding up the insert lol. They are steel! Just because something's light and the color is black do not assume something is plastic. After installing it, it has performed falllessly with no leaks And if you install right with the punch tool, the fit of the insert is not an issue and it's not going to come back out on you.

The packaging looks like it was used? Wood fibers,oil but it worked ,wasn't damaged and was cheaper than the auto parts store. I was worried it would go in crooked and wouldn't catch. Took a bit to catch and went in fine. It would be nice if the striking punch was longer

Worked as intended.

Worked good on my 97 ford 5.4! Still going good 2 years later

1.) this will take two days minimum to complete.2.) make sure you have all the additional tools: telescoping magnet, spark plug socket, 3/4 pipe bib remover, grease, RTV silicone, brake cleaner or engine degreaser, cleaning brush, and a long narrow attachment for a shop vac.3.) if you have time to take the head off the motor, do. You can’t prevent everything from dropping in the hole, and aluminum can’t be fished out with a magnet.4.) the new thread you make will go completely through the head, so be aware that you can set the insert too deep5.) if you do not thread the insert far enough due to shallow threads, the spark plug may split the top of the insert if you go to torque it. If this happens you will need a 3/4” pipe bib remover to twist it out.6.) if placement of the insert is adequate, let the rtv silicone cure for the full 24 hours. Or else you’ll spin it deeper or remove the insert when trying to remove the spark plug or torque it in.7.) this fix will last as long as the plug. There’s a high chance the insert will come out with the plug after a few months of holding back, ya know, explosions.8.) If you’re working on a sedan or other car, consider a back brace or knee bench and put a mat down over the side so you have a place to put your tools. You’re gonna be in there a while.