Wolf Tooth Components Roadlink

I just installed this. I was upgrading a 10 speed SRAM Force drivetrain to accept a smaller small chain-ring and a larger 11-32 cassette. The intent was to to a friend's cyclecross bike a better gear ratio for climbing on gravel rides. When i did it i ran into trouble tuning the derailleur, even with the b-screw all the way in.I bough this because it made sense and because WolfTooth generally has a solid reputation among the MTB community.Not disappointed. I loosened the chain by dropping it off the rings and installed this in-situ. It took a minute to make sure i had it set up so it was fastened in a way that it was braced and wouldn't rotate after installation. Still, it was the easiest bike repair i have ever done. For me, at least, after installing, i did not even have to adjust the limit screws. I did need to adjust the cable tension a click or two and that was it. No kidding.I should also note here that it was a huge relief that i did not have to adjust or replace the chain. I can't promise that this will be true for all installations, however; In my case i had bought and resized a chain (according to Park Took youtube guide recommendations). I was concerned that this WolfTooth alteration would force the need for a longer chain. It did not... I'm not sure about this, but the adaptor appears to swing the derailleur slightly forward which seems to address this concern.I do think an installer should be aware that they may also need to adjust limits and cable tensions... i may have gotten lucky there. if they are not comfortable with those skills, they can expect to make a visit to their local independent bike shop, but it absolutely did the job it is supposed to do.The max room on the 10s Force drive train was quoted as 28. I think i could have easily upped the range to an 11-34 (if one was available) without an issue. So... i speculate anyone could up their range by at least 6 teeth without a problem.... assuming your cage and adjusted chain length can handle the full range.I can't speak to durability and while the machining is excellent, i don't know if this will stay properly affixed, but if i have any issues i am fairly confident i could fix it with threadlock. I just didn't want to use it until the new system has some miles on it.

Easy to install, cheaper than a long cage derailer, and WORKS GREAT!!. Shifts just as well as the original set up.Great item!! Thank You Wolftooth👍

Worked on vintage 1998 Cannondale frame with Dura Ace 9 speed derailleur!

Replaced a worn out Deore XT with an RD M772 Shadow 9-speed derailleur to accomodate an 11-40 cassette (I have to climb a 20% grade just to get home) on a 1 x 9 road bike that has a 60-tooth way-radical elliptical chainring (shaped like a football). While the Shadow would work with the B-screw all the way in, it was still a bit slow and "grindy" shifting between the 36 and 40, because the jockey pulley was still a little tight according to Shimano's specs. Enter Mr. Wolftooth, and after installation I was able to back off the B-screw several turns and regain a fair amount of chain wrap around the cogs (the B-screw does nothing more than push the derailleur assembly back toward the rear of the bike, which does give more clearance, but sacrifices the amount of chain wrap and in some cases affects smooth shifting). I now have smooth, responsive shifting across the entire range, and, in fact, shifting to and from the smallest 11-tooth cog is now instantaneous, when before it was hit or miss. Oh, yes, and despite what Pacific Northwest alleges, there is a stop built in which mates to the frame hangar's stop, ensuring proper positioning. Stout, precise design makes this worth the extra cost.

Initially, when coming up with the idea of converting to a single (and having to get a larger rear cassette to still give me some low end) I was thinking I'd need a long cage derailer, however I realized that chain wrap wasn't the issue, clearing the jockey wheel over the larger sprocket was.I used this to make my 105 short cage work with an 11-36, coming from a 12-30. The front double was also converted to a single. It's only been one bike ride, but setup was pretty easy - I flipped my B screw and bolted everything on. Only had to bring in the high a little bit and shifting was OK. It is not quite as sharp as it was pre-RoadLink, due to the length, but it's acceptable. I am experiencing sloppier/missed shifts on the smaller cogs, but I figure I can do some adjusting to clean that up. So far, so good! I hope that the increased length doesn't cause my bike's integrated-into-the-frame hanger to bend out of alignment more easily, or snap off. I'll update this if I'm unable to get the gears to operate as nicely as I'd like - I'm very picky about shifting and there's nothing worse than taking off from a busy intersection, or somewhere else potentially hazardous, and you have a sudden and unexpected gear change while cranking the pedals for your life.UPDATE after a little under a year of use:Shortly after writing the first part, I made some adjustments and shifting is just fine. It seems to be 50/50 whether it'll get all the way into the "10th" gear (the smallest one) since I had to do some tuning to prevent it from running the chain off the sprocket and jamming it between the smallest gear and the frame. So, yeah, you'll lose a touch of fineness that comes with the 105 group, but it's nothing terrible. Running a single chainring has overall been a huge improvement, and I'm sure if consumers weren't so mis-information "More is Better" oriented, more bikes would come this way from the get-go.EDIT again:I've now got an 11-42 in back instead. Seems to work OK even though WT claims it's not supported. FYI, the SunRace cassette COMES WITH a bootleg RoadLink! Might just save ya $20. Doesn't have fancy stuff etched into it though, but it does appear to be of pretty decent quality...