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The Kia Motors OEM Genuine 93410B2010 Fog Light Switch Lever Assy is a must-have for 2014-2016 Kia Soul owners. This genuine factory item ensures a perfect fit and is crafted from durable polycarbonate, making it a reliable choice for your vehicle. With a lightweight design and easy installation, this fog light switch lever is the ideal upgrade for enhancing your driving experience.
Operation Mode | Auto |
Brand | enenfeifei |
Material | Polycarbonate |
Actuator Type | Hinge Lever |
International Protection Rating | IP00 |
Number of Positions | 1 |
Specification Met | Oem |
Connectivity Protocol | Wi-Fi |
Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
Number of Items | 1 |
Manufacturer | 201219990130 |
Item Weight | 1.6 ounces |
Package Dimensions | 11.9 x 4.1 x 3.2 inches |
Item model number | AMKM0227 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Manufacturer Part Number | 93410B2010 (=93410B2011) |
Voltage | 12 Volts |
B**N
Fix for a real problem!
I own a 2014 Kia Soul+, which I've had for over a year-and-a-half. One of the best vehicles I've ever owned, and I love driving it. It did develop a problem over the months, which was when driving with the headlights on occasionally when using the turn signals and completing a turn, when the signal lever would return to the off position the headlights would turn off! At first I thought I was somehow triggering this situation, as it was sporadic and I couldn't get it to repeat itself when I tried to do it on purpose. It slowly got worse to where it was doing it frequently. On this car the headlights control is on the same turn signal lever stalk, so I figured it was something mechanically, physically shared by both circuits, but not an electronic problem. Searching online I came across anecdotal comments about this problem, but no one seemed to know what was causing it. Then I found one comment from a mechanic that stated he had changed out the turn signal switch and the problem seemed to be gone. There was no follow-up on his comment, so I had no way of knowing if this was really the problem, although it seemed to fit with my observances of my car's situation. I pulled the steering column's covers off and exposed the turn signal / headlight switch. I found small openings in the switch's base, where all of the moving contact points for the different circuits are located. I couldn't remove the switch without pulling the steering wheel off (which also means the driver's airbag has to be removed as well), so I used electronic contact spray cleaner and sprayed it into the different openings on the switch case. The problem with the headlights turning off without warning went away! .....For a while, then it returned with a vengeance. I could no longer depend on the headlights coming on when I turned the knob on the turn signal lever. Sometimes they worked, and sometimes not. I ordered the replacement switch and looked up the procedure for changing it out. I trained as a mechanic back on the 70's and have done the majority of my own work for years, so for me the process to get the switch out and replaced was not intimidating, but I can see where for someone else it might be. The air bag needs to be removed, then the steering wheel, than a small unit referred to as "the clock spring" has to be carefully removed so it doesn't unwind. This gets you to the switch (switches really as the wiper control switch snaps onto the side of the turn signal switch). In doing the job there are a number of wire plugs that need removing and replacing. One other thing: The nut that holds the steering wheel on the column has to be replaced with a new one because it's self-locking and one-use only. The nut is not included with the switch, although that should be required to make the task easier and quicker. I had to order the nut separately after reading the Kia manual. This nut also requires that it be tightened down to specification, this is called torque. It's easy to do if you understand what you are doing and have the correct torque wrench. Why did I take all this to talk about the replacement turn signal switch? Because if you have done mechanical work on your cars in the past, have a good knowledge of the basics (such as the need for torquing a nut to a specified amount of tightness), aren't intimidated by removing an air bag and steering wheel, then this is a rather easy and reasonably quick repair job. If you aren't mechanically inclined and are concerned about your abilities to follow what I have already laid out, then take it to a shop and pay them to do the work. Is that expensive? Yes, and I have no idea how expensive, but shops are probably getting around $90+ an hour now, and a good mechanic should easily be able to do this in an hour or less, but who knows. I got the switch through Amazon and did the job for about $65, and that's with my ordering a couple of extra steering column nuts ($1.66 ea) and paying ridiculous shipping rates on the nuts (3 nuts cost much less than the shipping for just 1 nut). Replacing the switch seems to have solved the problem with my headlights, as they haven't turned off unexpectedly once since the task was done. The switch is a genuine Kia part, came in a real Kia box, and the nuts were sealed in a genuine Kia parts bag, as well. One last observation: I dismantled the original switch to see if I could determine what was causing the problem. All of the contact points inside the switch seemed in perfect condition, no burned points from arcing or shorting. All the moving parts inside seemed to work as designed (meaning correctly). The only thing that seemed out of place to me was the amount of what I assumed was "dielectric" grease. Dielectric grease is not supposed to be conductive. It is usually used to seal rubber boots on electrical connections (on the rubber part of spark plug boots, etc, but not on the metal connectors). It also can lubricate moving parts without conducting current. That's why I question the large amount of dielectric grease I found inside the headlight / turn signal switch contact points. Since it isn't conductive, all it would take to cause a circuit to fail to carry current would be for the grease to be moved across the face of the contact points, which is what was happening inside the switch each time the lever was moved. That would explain why my spraying contact cleaner into the switch seemed to help at first, but ultimately failed because i couldn't reach the contact points properly, and the grease that remained continued to cause problems. Is the new switch made the same way? I don't know. I also don't know how a switch like this could be lubricated to work reliably for 1000's of uses without some kind of problem. I will be watching how the new switch does very closely.
S**D
Perfect fit for my 2014 Soul base at an excellent price!
Perfect fit for my 2014 Soul base at an excellent price. Looks to be actual Kia part and I got it in 2 days instead of a month. The fog light control works, but you will have to add fog lights and wire them correctly if you don't already have them. I have not done this yet. My symptoms started with uncontrolled headlights flashing and an occasional interior light coming on in the middle of the night with nobody around. I tried adding a ground strap from the battery to the engine which seemed to work for a little while, but eventually the problem returned and worsened. There is a really good video on the tube that shows exactly how to install this. Just be careful and take your time!
D**D
Great service and part
It worked. Price was right.
C**S
One Star
unable to install as wiring harness is not available, returned
Trustpilot
1 week ago
2 weeks ago