Yinlowa Rear Hatch Latch Actuator Tailgate Lock Trunk Latch Assembly for 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner 4.0L 4.7L V6 V8 Engines, Replaces 69110-35090 69110-35060 69110-35062 TO1911104 AC89740

I was dismayed when my 2007 Toyota Camry's trunk had difficulty shutting; I had to push it down 2-4x before it would close. I had the problem for several weeks so I was afraid that eventually, it wouldn't work at all, and I'd be stuck somewhere with my trunk unable to close! I was going to take it to Toyota for repair but first, I asked a handy neighbor to look at it. He said to go online and get a part to replace it. Hurray Amazon had this part and even a video that shows you how to install it! My neighbor replaced it in less than 10 minutes, and it works perfectly! Thanks to the manufacturer for making this part that fits perfectly, easy to install, and exceptionally low cost! Even though I'm not mechanically inclined, with that video, I think I could have installed it myself! : o )

Another user figured this out and left it in their review. I didn't quite understand it until I started working on it myself. This part is well-made and fit my 2003 Toyota Sequoia 4.7L SR5. I had two problems when I first installed it, though, and they were both fixed the same way. First, the rear gate wouldn't latch solidly unless I really slammed it. Second, the lock wasn't working. Both were caused by the fact that the collar where the cable seats in this latch was slightly too far from the shoe where the end of the cable is. I don't know if this is the part's fault, or is a result of the aftermarket handle I've also installed. Will give this manufacturer the benefit of the doubt, though. It took me...too long to figure this out, but basically what was happening was that I'd had to pull on the cable to seat the collar part. What this did was pull a little cable out of the sheath. IT WAS LIKE SOMEONE WAS SQUEEZING DOWN ON THE TRUNK HANDLE JUST A LITTLE BIT. So, of course this prevented the lock from working -- it was like someone was holding the handle down. It also kept the trunk from closing properly -- it was like trying to close a door while someone is holding the latch down slightly. ***The solution was super simple: bend the metal part where the sheath's collar sits (illustration below) such that you're not having to PULL cable out in order to seat the end.*** That's it. I probably bent it a half inch with a pair of pliers and now the trunk on my 22-year-old Sequoia opens more crisply than ever before. It's like a new car! I figure this still deserves 5 stars because I don't know if I complicated things by installing my aftermarket handle. ***Obviously, this is just one guy's experience on one make from one year. Proceed with caution if you start bending your part, but that's what worked for me!***

Installed two weeks ago, working perfect so far. Looked like very decent quality. Latch was perfect fit, and the old lock actuator motor fit right on it. Used a new OEM cable we had on hand, both it and the one that came in this package were too long, didn't figure out why (the old cable was broke and destroyed, but new latch assembly dimensions were identical to the old....I suspect something goofy with the handle assembly on the other end of the cable), and I had to put a stack of split washers on the ball end, which works very well to effectively "shorten" it. If all the components last a few years, I will consider it a great value. And I echo the multitudes of owners out there with my opinion of a very poor and weak Toyota latch system design.

Worked perfectly. I watched a YouTube video on how to install, it was literally done in about 10 minutes.

Less than two months after purchase this actuator has started to fail. The latch assembly does not catch the latch pin if the door is pulled/pushed closed with a minimal amount of force. The door will bounce off the latch pin as if the mechanism is hanging up and won't engage around the latch pin. Originally I thought this was an alignment issue but after spending a couple hours trying to adjust the actuator, latch pin and all the actuation rods nothing improved. If the door is placed against the latch pin and lightly pushed it will engage and lock, most of the time. On one occassion the actuator appeared to latch and even locked but upon turning a corner the door swung open. A couple different attempts have been made to contact the supplier and no response has been received. Hopefully I just got a bad actuator and this isn't a common issue for others.

It works just fine once you get everything disassembled and replaced. However, the new pull cord is too long and caused the hatch to stay locked. After some fiddling, I was able to open the hatch and decided to reuse the original pull cord and everything is fine.

I'm assuming the reason you're here is because you got yourself an aftermarket security system and it has the ability to open your trunk and you didn't have this ability stock and you want to add it. If that's the case read on, if not, this will still work for you as a replacement and that's all you need to know. I bought this because I had wanted to put a security system in my Toyota that didn't come with one. I had my viper kit installed and after the fact installed this myself as it would've cost way too much for the amount of work it took. However it took me a lot of thinking so I'm going to try to save you the extra heart ache and tell you how to wire this up. It fits right in like it should but when you wire it up it's not going to work right. Aftermarket security systems for accessories like lock, unlock, trunk, etc functions send out or recieve a ground signal. The trunk actuator is going to want to be switched by a +12v signal. I went through all the testing phases to try and figure out why and all I could figure out is that you're going to need a relay to give each component the signal that it needs. I know this sounds complicated but it's actually easier than it sounds. The relay you'll need will have four pins, two to engage the coil and two to create a path to the actuator. I recomend you get the same wire terminal pieces that work with the relay you get from your local autozone. For starters you need to send a CONSTANT +12v DC signal to the coil of the relay. You'll probably have to send one back there, which kinda sucks, but that's not terribly hard either. Go from your fuse box or just patch into you 12v outlet near the center console. Don't worry about your fuses because this actuator doesn't need much power to work anyway. Route the wire along the driverside doorpanel amd through a small whole in the corner of the rear bench seat. Go up through the roof of your trunk and stick the wire inbeetween all the other wires going to the trunk lid. Once you've done that, you'll route the ground from your security system trunk signal to the GROUND of the coil. This will create a path when you engage the trunk button on your remote. Once you've done all this, the rest is easy. You'll short the terminal that you just created with the +12v DC to the contactor. Should take no more than 6 inches of wire. Once this is done, send the remaining contactor to the +12v wire from the wiring harness on your car. NOTE: I never like cutting factory wires as this is permanent so I went to my local Pull-A-Part and got a wiring harness for cheap. I know you wished this would be easier but since I'm assuming you're a lower trim Camry you didn't come with the trunk function from the factory. Once this is done, make sure your connections are tight and you're all set. This is just going to pop the trunk open so if you want it to open most of the way you can YouTube bungie cord trunk opener or something like that. This is a mod that will open your trunk nearly all the way. I've had mine for years and it's worked for me as long as you don't get super cheap bungie cords.

You likely need the lock module that this unit has. Makes installing easier