Crucial (Discontinued) MX300 1TB 3D NAND SATA M.2 (2280) Internal SSD - CT1050MX300SSD4

Okay, the first thing I have to say is that adding this to my computer -- an ASUS ROG GL752VW-DH71 17.3-inch Gaming Laptop (Intel i7 2.6GHz, 16GB DDR4 RAM, 1TB HDD, GTX960M 2GB Graphic Card, Windows 10) -- and having it take over the boot drive responsibilities from the existing hard disc drive (HDD), using the included Acronis software was as easy as easy gets. I have read reviews, blogs, articles, and forum accounts of people who bad-mouthed the included Acronis True Image data migration software. The varying accounts and approaches had me braced for the worst. I searched high and low for any and all information I could find. Forewarned is forearmed, right? I had several tabs at the ready on another laptop, just in case I ran into problems. Some praised other software; some of them found that other software simple to use, while others jumped through all kinds of hoops. My research and preparation took HOURS and HOURS of my time, but, not knowing what to expect, prepared is good, right? What a waste of time it turned out to be to prepare for troubles other people had in doing that which was ridiculously easy for me. I don't know why this was so easy for me, yet so fraught with peril for others, but here's (more or less) how I did it: - Before starting, I assigned a new drive letter ("O", for "optical") to my DVD/CD drive. The computer comes with the HDD set to "C" and the DVD/CD set to "D" -- but I knew I was going to want my new Crucial M.2 SSD to be my new drive "C" and the HDD renamed to "D," so I just got the renaming of the DVD/CD out of the way right off the bat. (Clearing the decks, so to speak.) - This MAY or MAY NOT have had something to do with my ease of setup, but I'm going to share it, just in case: I had been playing with the notion of using BSD or Linux instead of Windows. In order to try out some "live" CDs, I had changed a few BIOS settings: 1) Security menu -> Secure Boot: disabled 2) Boot menu -> Fast Boot disabled 3) Boot menu -> Launch CSM enabled - Two screws (requiring a very small Philips screwdriver) undone, and I was into the laptop case. The Crucial M.2 SSD slid into the connector with little resistance. (Be CAREFUL: if it seems hard, take a closer look and make sure you don't have the card upside down. There are two notches in the card connector end, but only one corresponding positioner in the motherboard connector; it's easy to make the mistake of trying to put it in the wrong way.) Use one of the provided screws (and an even smaller Philips driver) to screw down the other end of the SSD card to the Motherboard standoff. (It will be obvious.) PROPS to Crucial for including the screws! Another popular brand (Samsung) couldn't see fit to package a few cents' worth of screws with their $150 card. (The argument that the computer should have the screw already is without merit. I've been repairing and building computers for thirty years and have almost NEVER found an extra screw in a motherboard or case; the fasteners always come with the components, if at all.) Crucial even threw an extra one into the bag, just in case you lose one (which would be easy; they are very small). Warning: if you DO lose one INSIDE your laptop, you're going to want to find it. Loose metal objects bouncing around working electronics can end in disaster.) * Sorry for the digression, but here's something I did that helped with getting the screw in: BEFORE inserting the Crucial M.2 SSD card, I used a tweezer to hold the screw atop the standoff, then turned the screw in, just about 1½ threads. Then I inserted the card firmly into the slot and lowered the end over the screw. It would not pass the screw head, so I *carefully* loosened the screw just enough for it to tilt a bit, but not allowing it to fall away. The card dropped down; I then carefully stood the screw straight back up, then tightened it down. - Turned on the computer. Opened Windows' Computer Management -> Storage -> Disk (sic) Management. Windows showed the new drive, unformatted, ~488 GB. (Not 525, but get used to it. Manufacturers have been playing fast and loose with capacity claims for some time now. They conveniently use metric standards for marketing purposes, while old sticks in the mud like me understand that a KILObyte, in computers' binary shorthand, means 1,024, NOT 1,000. Then there's overhead for whatever may be preinstalled... Tradition be damned; salesmen point to the difference between a GB and a GiB, while users are left wondering why their new storage devices don't show the same numbers onscreen that the shiny packages show... but I digress.) So, I was pleased as punch to see that Windows recognized the new Crucial M.2 SSD -- and was calling it Disk 0 (as in "zero"). Very promising! (For the uninitiated, we old C programmers, users of the foundation language of modern programming, start counting at "0" -- not "1." Could this be an indication that making this the boot drive was going to be a bit easier?) * At this point, Windows was showing me the option to format the drive, but I DISREGARDED it, choosing to give Acronis the chance to work with a clean slate. Preformatting it might have made the process more complex. (Not knowing how Acronis worked, I couldn't know, but, generally, when formatting any drive, SSD, HDD, or floppy, starting in an unformatted state is less likely to bring out potential bugs in formatting software.) I exited the Windows' Computer Management program. - Following the simple instructions included with the Crucial M.2 SSD, I downloaded the Acronis True Image program, installed it, and entered the activation serial number (plainly printed on the back of the instructions) and e-mail address (yes, but I gave them a special e-mail address I only check if I HAVE TO). I did NOT have to verify the email address, which was nice. - Installing and running Acronis took a few minutes. I chose the "clone drive" option to copy the HDD contents to the SSD. Being a new computer, there was less than 50 GB worth of material to copy. Nonetheless, I like to keep whatever control I can over how my computer is configured, so I didn't simply accept the "trust me" options. I chose to check the settings and I think what I used is what the defaults would have been, anyway. When the cloning was done, I rebooted the computer, and Windows loaded up FAST. Could it be...? I went back into Windows' Comouter Management -> Storage -> Disk Management and, lo and behold, the newly cloned Crucial SSD, still "Disk 0," was now drive "C" and the HDD had been rename to drive "D." All automatically. I did nothing to make that happen. Curious to see what BIOS thought of the new hardware, I Restarted the computer, holding the [Esc] key down until I was presented with a menu of boot options. There, at the top of the list, was the new Windows boot partition on the SSD. In 2nd place was the old Windows boot partition on the HDD. Also on the list were the HDD device and the DVD/CD drive. I chose to enter Setup and look further in the Boot menu screen. There I found confirmation of the boot choices I had just been presented. I quit the BIOS utility and let it boot -- automatically, into Windows, using the new Crucial M.2 SSD, all without my having to do anything to make that happen. I am amazed. Ever since the onset of Plug and Play so many years ago, this was easily the best example of automatic configuration I've experienced. I've timed the boots a few times, now, and I'm getting a login screen in 12 - 13 seconds from a "cold" (non-hibernating) start. After logging in, my desktop appears in 2 - 3 seconds. (If it was in hibernation, the desktop appearance time is immeasurably fast; visually instantaneous.) The performance on the SSD is everything you've already read about -- just incredibly fast. The performance improvement you'll get out of this SSD almost eliminates the lag introduced by code bloat of new software. (Seriously, almost EVERYTHING is measured in tens or hundreds of MBs these days.) Even if you don't have loads of RAM, the swapping to and from an SSD happens so much faster than through a hard drive, even the most sloth-like software works at a good pace. This was a GREAT investment to have an SSD, in general, but the installation of this particular Crucial M.2 SSD and bundled software, in particular, made the upgrade painless. I highly recommend it.

After many many hours spent over two months trying to make the Oculus Rift CV1 work consistently, I've found the best possible combination and I think this info will really help those looking for a hassle free experience. My experience will be especially relevant to folks who need their other USB ports to work for things like Joysticks and any pilots looking to use Flyinside. In short the two absoulute must haves for a good VR experience are: 1) The MSI Z270A Xpower Titanium Motherboard because it has a supplemental VR Boost power 6 pin connector on the board that ensures no drops or judders even when I'm using three sensors, the Xbox one controller, wireless USB Keybord/Mouse. The overclocking function within BIOS OR with the included physical switch is a one click wonder with OC levels from 1-11. I set mine to a maximum setting of 11 and the I5-7600K bumped up from 3.8 to 4.9 GHZ with temps at 40 deg Celcius idle/60 deg playing any Oculus games/80 deg for CPU intensive FSX at Max settings with Flyinside. 2) A Sata III or M.2 SSD because Windows 10 just doesn't work well with a mechanical HDD as these always show at 99-100% disk usage even after fresh windows installs with nothing else on the HDD! Here is my perfect VR Rig for the Oculus MB: MSI Z270A Xpower Titanium Motherboard (Amazon Warehouse deals $290) CPU: Kaby Lake I5 7600K one click OC to 4.9 GHz (Amazon new $240) GPU: ASUS GTX 1080 Rog Strix BC 1835 MHz (Amazon Warehouse deals $485) RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR 4 LPX 8 GB 3000 MHz (Amazon new $70) HD: Crucial MX300 1TB M.2 (2280) SSD (Amazon new $270) PS: EVGA G3 850W (Amazon new $120) CASE: Corsair Graphite 780T (Amazon Warehouse Deals $150) USB: On Board Intel eXtensible ports ($0) DEVICES: Logitech USB Wireless Keyboard & Mouse / Saitek CyborgX / 3 Oculus Sensors on USB 3.0 / Oculus RIft on USB 3.0 OS: Windows 10 Education (Free for anyone with a college email address) PROGRAMS: Oculus Home, EA Origin, Steam, VorpX, Flyinside If I want I can even have a gazillion programs and overlays running without problems in the background, such as all the Motherboard utlities, GPU utilities, CPU-Z, EA Origin & Steam and still play Oculus/Unspoken/EVE Valkerie at Ultra settings. Spec'ing a similar ALienware Aurora config with slower RAM/slower GTX 1080 was ~ $300 more at $1900 while mine cost $1600 after I convinced my wife to let me go all out in the end :) Here are the combinations that DID NOT work without USB disconnects (eg. mouse/keyboard/Xbox controller stops working when running Oculus). This is after I followed the Oculus team's advice on USB cards and their Windows 10 USB power management disabling guide. 1) Dear wife, I only have to get a graphics and Inateck card because my 7 yr old OC I7-920 is still powerful. Promise to spend less than $1000 with Oculus Rift and Touch included! MB: Asus P6X58e-WS / CPU: Core I7-920 OC 3.8 GHz / GPU: ASUS GTX 1060 6 GB / RAM: OCZ 8 GB DDR 3 1600 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: OCZ 700W / USB: Inateck 4 port Card Didn't work due to constant USB disconnects. 2) Dear wife, I only have to get this additional $100 USB card that Oculus is recommending and I need to spend an extra $100 on a GTX 1070. MB: Asus P6X58e-WS / CPU: Core I7-920 OC 3.8 GHz / GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 8 GB / RAM: OCZ 8 GB DDR 3 1600 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: OCZ 700W / USB: Highpoint 4 Port USB 3.0 RocketU 1144D Didn't work due to BSOD's "System Thread Exception Not Handled" and then "Clock Watchdog Timeout". 3) Dear wife, I only have to go back to the Inateck card again and use USB 2.0 for one of the two sensors and the headset. MB: Asus P6X58e-WS / CPU: Core I7-920 OC 3.8 GHz / GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 8 GB / RAM: OCZ 8 GB DDR 3 1600 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: OCZ 700W / USB: Inateck 4 port Card Didn't work due to USB disconnects. 4) Dear wife, this wont cost us anything. Can you tell me where you put my old MSI X58 pro MB? Dear God, please help me:) MB: MSI X58-Pro / CPU: Core I7-920 Stock 2.66 GHz / GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 8 GB / RAM: OCZ 8 GB DDR 3 1600 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: OCZ 700W / USB: Inateck 4 port Card IT WORKS!!! Was working great with one sensor/headset on USB 3.0 card one on USB 2.0. No USB disconnects at all. 5) Dear God, I must have room scale and really need a 3rd sensor. Dear wife, only one more $20 Inateck card and $60 Oculus sensor plus I asked God almighty upstairs and I'm sure he'll come through like last time? I even gave $20 in charity! MB: MSI X58-Pro / CPU: Core I7-920 Stock 2.66 GHz / GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 8 GB / RAM: OCZ 8 GB DDR 3 1600 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: OCZ 700W / USB: 2 Inateck 4 port Cards Crap! The power went off after a split second. Lets try with only one card. Nope, system wont post. 6) Dear wife, I only have to spend $60 more to get a new relatively inexpensive XEON CPU MB: MSI X58-Pro / CPU: Xeon x5687 3.6 GHz stock / GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 8 GB / RAM: OCZ 8 GB DDR 3 1600 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: OCZ 700W / USB: Inateck 4 port Card Didn't work due to system still wouldn't post 7) Dear wife, I'm sure the ASUS will work with only a new power supply. I need $120. MB: Asus P6X58e-WS / CPU: Xeon x5687 3.6 GHz stock / GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 8 GB / RAM: OCZ 8 GB DDR 3 1600 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: EVGA G3 850W / USB: Inateck 4 port Card Didn't work, system wouldn't recognize either Inateck card. 8) Dear God, I know you love me more than my mother does and I want a great computer so I can play VR and FSX with Flyinside since my dream of flying real planes is dead; I hear you have infinite treasures and I beg you help me out pleeeease Lord. Dear Wife, I can totally explain today's orders from Amazon... Lets eat out tonight :0 MB: Asus Z270e Rog Strix (Amazon Warehouse Deals $200)/ CPU: Kaby Lake I5 7600K Stock 3.8 GHz / GPU: ASUS GTX 1080 Rog Strix BC 1835 MHz / RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR 4 LPX 8 GB 3000 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: EVGA G3 850W Didn't work! Just like the old Asus X-58, constant USB drops. Hard disk always at 99%. Crap, is the Oculus returnable? 9) Dear Amazon, either Asus lied when they said VR Ready or I think you sent me a bad board so I will buy a cheaper ASUS from you. MB: Asus Z270A Prime (Amazon Warehouse Deals $160)/ CPU: Kaby Lake I5 7600K Stock 3.8 GHz / GPU: ASUS GTX 1080 Rog Strix BC 1835 MHz / RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR 4 LPX 8 GB 3000 MHz / HD: Hitachi 1 TB 5400 RPM / PS: EVGA G3 850W Didn't work. Windows 10 would not install and I figured its time to call it quits on ASUS since the Z270e was better than this Z270A. 10) Dear wife, whats another $100 for the sake of my happiness? Its not like we can afford a vacation during your college spring break anymore anyways. $500 left in the bank will hold us to next payday I'm sure :) MB: MSI Z270A Xpower Titanium Motherboard/ CPU: Kaby Lake I5 7600K OC 4.9 GHz / GPU: ASUS GTX 1080 Rog Strix BC 1835 MHz / RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR 4 LPX 8 GB 3000 MHz / HD: Crucial MX300 1TB M.2 (2280) SSD / PS: EVGA G3 850W It works flawlessly! Dear God, thank you! You've rewarded my faith, prayers and patience with the ultimate in gaming happiness. Dear Wife, you've got to try this! WIFE: "Oh wow this is so realistic"! Hopefully my rant above will save some of you folks some time, headaches, frustration and ultimately some money. The Oculus Rift CV1 is AMAZING but don't expect the in store demo experience if you cheap out on either the Motherboard or the SSD. The MSI Titanium Z270a Xpower and any SSD for at least the OS are a MUST HAVE. Everything else you can compromise on and build a system at 1/3rd to 1/2 the cost of mine. To be honest because of ASW the GTX 1060 6 GB was really good even with Dubug Tool Pixels set to 1.5 but I decided to futureproof. My original 17-920 system was built for FSX but the boxed edition caused way too many DLL errors. 7 years later, combined with the Steam edition of FSX ($5 for code on Amazon) I basically have 20 different airplanes in my house and a flight experience almost identical to the real thing (Thank you Flyinside)

Was slightly disappointed that it only formatted out to about 489G useable, but it's screaming fast. I already have a good 240G SSD already set up as the boot drive. I bought this mainly for the speed in loading games that access the hard drive a lot. I play WoW, GW2, Black Desert, and several Steam games that need to load often from the drive and this one makes them load like lightning! I would recommend it for booting your OS from, but I just didn't want to remap and move the OS when I have that working great. But it is truly fantastic for all that software where loading times are a factor. And in a tiny card that, for my motherboard, actually mounts to the M.2 slot built into mine, and many other new boards. Even if you do not have an existing port, a PCI card to mount one is cheap too! THIS is the future of storage. UPDATE! I have switched this to be my boot C:\ drive and it has been SOOOO FAST! VERY reliable. It has outlasted mechanical hard drives. A year and a half later it is still working well And it has been moved to an ASUS X370-PRIME Motherboard in June, 2017, when I upgraded to a Ryzen 7 1700. Has been my boot drive now for about 9 months and it's a pleasure. I boot in less than a minute, and most fo the time is waiting for the motherboard POST. Actual Windows 10 Pro boot time is about 15 - 20 seconds! Still running some HD heavy load time games too. Warcraft loads in about 10 seconds! Zones load super fast for WoW and GW2. Black Desert Online takes forever on a spinning hard drive, but loads VERY VERY fast on this stick!

Very good fast ssd ,installed in MSIGT873VR without any problems.

Lieferzeit: 1 Tag Verbaut in: Acer VN7-571G [Laptop] Read: 531,9 MB/s [Angabe: 530 MB/s] (im Vollbetrieb) Write: 492,1 MB/s [Angabe: 510 MB/s] (im Vollbetrieb) Echte Kapazität: 255 GB von 275 GB (Win10x64Pro 8GB RAM) Besonderheiten: - Acronis True Image Key für Backup (nicht genutzt) - SCHRAUBEN IM LIEFERUMFANG! Wer die Systemfestplatte von HDD auf SSD umstellt, wird einen enormen Geschwindigkeitszuwachs feststellen sowie eine verlängerte Akkulaufzeit, insofern diese nicht ständig angesteuert wird. Zuvor war eine Kingston 120GB M.2SSD verbaut, die jedoch aufgrund von Platzmangels ausgewechselt werden musste. Die MX300 ist sogar erheblich schneller und besser - rein subjektiv betrachtet. Der Laptop ist innerhalb weniger Sekunden einsatzbereit. Besonders schätzenswert sind die beigelegten Schrauben zur Befestigung, die notwendig zum fixieren, aber beispielsweise bei Kingston nicht beigelegt waren. Zusätzlich ist noch ein Lizenzschlüssel für Acronis Backup im Lieferumfang, zwar nicht genutzt da ich immer komplett plattmache, aber nette Beigabe. Summa Summarum wirklich bombasisches Preis/Leistungsverhältnis, auf jeden Fall sehr zu empfehlen. Update: Anhand der Verwaltungssoftware "Crucial Storage Executive", ähnlich dem Samsung Magician, lässt sich die SSD überwachen sowie Beispielsweise die Momentum Cache-Funktion aktivieren. Dadurch kommen folgende Benchmarks zustande: Read: 2354 MB/s Write: 2075 MB/s Diese Werte erscheinen mir jedoch relativ Realitätsfern.

Despues de un mes de uso, puedo decir que mi pc se ha convertido en una bestia, es el mejor disco duro basandonos en su precio y la cantidad de almacenamiento, cabe mencionar que cuenta con la licencia de un software para transferir todos tus datos del antiguo disco duro a tu nuevo ssd m.2 (Acronis) este programa es bastante facil de usar, sin duda recomiento al 100% este ssd m.2 es bastante facil de instalar, solo hace falta abrir tu pc y puff conectarlo y facil, rapido y para toda la familia.

I was in dilemma-- what to opt; this one or Samsung 850EVO. Samsung is a slightly better performer having a longer warranty for 5 years, while Crucial offers larger storage capacity at a slightly lower price. Since, my purpose is to use it as an external storage I opted Crucial (available storage 488 gb vs 465 gb of Samsung). I do have a Samsung and I compared them and the difference is hardly detectable. After all crucial is a good ssd, but the price appears to be a bit higher than I expected. Amazon should think about its price (particularly considering the fact that Samsung is a popular brand in India) so that more and more people can opt it,

Muito poderoso. Estou muito satisfeito com o produto! O produto eu recomendo. Único problema foi com a entrega que ultrapassou o tempo limite, quanto ao produto, excelente!