FreudThin Kerf Rip Saw Blade with Premium Tico Hi-Density Carbide Ripping Blend for Maximum Performance - 10" Diameter, 24 Teeth, .071" Plate, Flat Grind - LU87R010

I decided to put this 9" ripping blade with 22 teeth, on my Dewalt radial arm saw. So far, I can't see a need to purchase any other blade. The reduced motor drag, and the decreased sawdust from the larger teeth, are reason enough to use a ripping blade.I got the idea from "BigMikeTuna." He said in his famous radial arm saw video, showing his 1978 Craftsman radial arm saw, that he only uses this Freud 10" thin kerf "ripping blade" for all his fine furniture building, including precision crosscuts on critical hardwoods in furniture--he says he never uses any other blade, and doesn't own a table saw due to table saws being the most dangerous tool ever made. He goes into detail about why they are so dangerous in his radial arm saw video.If you have a table saw, just throw it away; there are 7.... horrific accidents per day on table saws in the USA--go and read the statistics and stories before you use it again. That is 7 "horrific" stories every single day, not including the hundreds of minor accidents each day on the table saw, in the United States alone... I don't like to use negative words that create negative thoughts, so I'm being vague on purpose. But please look up the statistics.Table saws are run with no guard on them, as a standard practice, and most of the old cast iron saws have no riving knife, which is a recipe for a ruinous accident. If you are going to use a table saw, at least get one with a riving knife, and don't even think about using your old style "non riving knife" contractor saw anymore.I use this blade for all my cuts. Radial arm saws are far better at ripping boards than crosscutting, because their bearings, and carriage are locked during a rip cut, so you get 100% accuracy, with zero slop in the bearings due to entire carriage being tightly locked into a fixed position during a rip cut.And, nobody happened to notice, but a radial arm saw has about a 99% dust collection efficiency during a rip cut, better than any other power tool, without any modifications to the guard, due tot he inherent location of the guard over the blade.But in a crosscut, a radial arm saw blade guard does almost nothing, it provides only partial protection to the user. And, stupidly, the guard cannot actually be used for dust collection on a crosscut. You can only collect dust on a radial arm saw by doing a rip cut, but most people don't realize this. In my opinion after owning 10 radial arm saws, and 2 table saws, a radial arm saw is much safer for rip cuts than crosscuts--the exact opposite of the common rumors about them.The blade guard covers 98% of the blade during a rip cut, and the carriage is locked so it cannot move, which makes it a lot safer than a table saw being run with no guard.As BigMikeTuna explains in his famous video, a radial arm saw cannot do a violent ejection of a board either, because the blade is set down into the cutting deck, so the outside periphery of the teeth cannot launch a board up into the air--also the blade guard prevents this from being possible, due to the blade guard blocking most of the blade. Again, table saws are run without any blade guard, as a standard practice. Radial arm saws are never operated without the guard, because the guard is not obtrusive.Back to this blade:I want to buy a 2nd one of these blades, but the cost is actually unreasonable, considering that you can get a budget blade for $14. It doesn't make sense why these are $55 or $60. Out of principle, I have held off on buying a 2nd blade, even though I do need another one. They need to bring these thin kerf blades down to about $38.

I have purchased this blade in the past because of the quality and nothing has changed. Very good blade at a reasonable price.

This blade truly lives up to its name. I used it to rip some 6/4 ash to use as a tabletop. While there are harder woods out there, ash is quite hard enough to test out a new blade. It’s what MLB bats are made of, for reference..As long as your fence is well aligned, the blade makes that beautiful singing sound as it rips. No trouble at all. Not a hint of burning or smoke. No chipping. Just perfectly square and smooth edges.Two of my pictures show how the seam between boards almost disappears. The other picture shows a sliver I ripped off which measured less than 1/32”. So yes, this blade could be used for veneers.While you can get pretty decent “hobby” blades from the big box stores, spend your money on this “industrial” one. You will notice a difference.I can’t speak to its longevity but as long as its not put under heavy lateral stress which can burn teeth, and is cleaned if it collects sap, I think it will last quite a while.

I got this blade to upgrade my ancient Craftsman 8" table saw. The ripping blades I got with it really caused the saw to struggle. I've only used the new blade to rip 4 short pieces of 1x3, but the cut was very clean and it was like cutting through butter compared to the old blades. The combination of carbide cutters and thin kerf really help to get more out of this saw. Highly recommend.

The media could not be loaded. WATCHED VIDEOS ON THE CMT TOOLS SAW BLADE AND THEY WERE NOT CUTTING SQUARE ,CAME BACK TO THIS BRAND FOR A FLAT TOP BLADE.THE THIN KERF THAT I HAVE FROM THIS COMPANY HAS THE ATB( ALTERNATING BEVEL) WHICH LEAVE A U SHAPED CUT IN THE WOOD .BUT FOR SQUARE FLAT CUTS THIS IS THE RIGHT BLADE . YOU CAN EASILY MAKE DADOS WITH THIS .THE PHOTO IS A 1/4 “ DADO I MADE TO FIT THE 1/4” PANEL I BOUGHT FROM THE LUMBER YARD WHICH IS LESS THAN 1/4”.WHEN I USE A TRUE 1/4” ROUTER BIT TO MAKE A 1/4” DADO , THE STORE BOUGHT 1/4” PANEL FITS TOO LOSE .THIS IS YOUR SOLUTION.ALSO A DADO STACK STARTS AT 1/4” UP TO 7/8” .($115)THIS 1/4 FLAT TOP BLADE IS YOUR SOLUTION .BEEN USING THIS BRAND SAW BLADES FOR OVER A YEAR NOW AND THEY WORK GREAT ON ALL TABLE SAWS I USED PREVIOUSLY NAMELY RIGID , RYOBI TABLE SAW AND FINALY A DEWALT TABLE SAW .

As another reviewer mentioned, the Jet blade that came with the saw was not cutting it, as it was burning everything and putting horrible saw marks on every cut. I purchased this blade as a replacement and couldn't be happier. I've owned 2 of these blades and they transformed my "underpowered" saw (Jet Contractor) into a cutting machine. Unfortunately, the 1st blade found a piece of metal in some plywood and required replacement - no fault of the blade.I'm usually working with 4/4-5/4 red oak and it never misses a beat. The thin kerf design really does make a difference with these "underpowered" saws. Even though you would expect more deflection/chatter because it's thinner, it does produce a very clean edge. The only gripe I have is that I cannot find this blade locally. I was forced to try the Freud Diablo D1024x and I was VERY dissapointed. See my review of the D1024x for more on that blade.

Nice clean cuts. I also have the Freud regular kerf rip blade. Both a nice blades but the thin kerf blade is my favorite. The saw doesn't work as hard and it removes a little less material. Overall, this is my fourth Freud blade. I've been happy with all of them. Don't break the bank to buy but are well made with solid performance and have held up well.