Sporthfish Stainless Steel Pinion Yoke Wrench Tool,Suitable for Various Styles of Yokes,Axles,Flanges;Fits for Most Sockets Extra 1/2" Hole;Strength Puller Suitable for loosening nuts flanges

Yoke wrench worked flawlessly , and the price is right ,must have tool

Worked well for my Toyota 8” yoke. Only 2 bolts fit, but it was enough.

Had to replace the "Companion Flange" on a Dana M226 axle for Nissan Frontier to a different bolt pattern to the driveshaft, this tool was adequate for purpose but did require using additional miscellaneous hardware that I already had on hand. I expect that it would work on a Nissan C200k axle as well, and for 2nd generation Xterras in addition to Frontiers, the truck being worked on was being swapped from a C200k to an M226 and the old C200k used a 6-bolt flange, I was replacing the 8-bolt flange that was on the M226 with a 6-bolt flange to match the truck's driveshaft. The took could have stood to have been made out of thicker material admittedly, but for limited use in a home shop it is adequate.

High Quality piece. Utilized the 3/4inch hole to hold the yoke with my 1-inch drive breaker bar whilst using the impact to remove the nut. I placed flat washers under the 5/16-inch hex head strap bolts to be sure they would not pull through the 'slotted holes' on the tool. Also, used the two different 1/2inch holes at different times as well. Breaker bar to hold yoke steady with the tool, multiplier to increase torque, and torque wrench to get proper amount on nut.

Had this delivered overnight to help me with an AAM 12-bolt 9.5" differential on an '18 Tahoe. We could not get the crush sleeve to crush, and I didn't want to bung up the yoke or ruin the bolts by giving it any more uggas nor duggas with a prybar between the driveline bolts so I called a timeout until we got a proper yoke holder. With this on deck we successfully ruined 6 pinion nuts trying to get that **** crush sleeve to buckle, which it never did, but this yoke holder held strong using the 1/2" square drive hole attached to a 4 foot breaker bar chained to the frame, and heaving on the pinion nut with a 6 foot bar until nut after nut left their threads behind on the hardened steel pinion, as well as a few rounds with the 3/4" pneumatic gun. The square hole is slightly less square than when I took it out of the box, but not within a mile of rounding out, and again I stress, we put a LOT of force on this, way way more than your typical pinion nut will ever experience. Plus since it's stainless (real stainless, magnet doesn't attract to it AT ALL) you don't even need to make room in your toolbox, just drop it on the ground until you need it again, it won't rust! My advice to any of you shopping this tool while working specifically on a 2014+ GM 9.5" rear end is this: Take the axle off the truck, use a press to assemble the pinion stack in the diff housing, put it back on the truck. That's how the build them in the factory, and you will never, ever get that crush sleeve to buckle without hydraulic force.