ELEGOO Water Washable 3D Printer Resin, Rapid LCD Resin 405nm UV-Curing Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD 3D Printing Clear Red 1000G

Great results with this resin, straight out of the box with their factory recommended settings. Just the smell is quite stronger than some other water washable resins we used.

Arrived on time and was as described, good resin

AnyCubic Photon. I have been using opaque resins up to this point. Before I started printing a friend would print things for me and he used this clear green resin. I wasn't sure what to think because they seemed to come out brittle. Thr opaque would as well, but it seemed sturdier, so fewer chips or breaks.I also wanted to try a water-wash up just for the ease of use and clean up. I was tired of the IPOH smell and handling.I read the reviews, they seemed relatively positive, so I figured I'd give it a shot.I'll go over everything, briefly.1st: Smell. It has the same smell as the IPOH clean up resin, however the smell isn't as strong. It's significantly less, but the smell is not gone. Make note of that. Don't expect no scent. Same, just weaker.2nd: Detail. Superb. It is capable of the same ultra fine detail the best resins are capable of. I am not disappointed in the slightest. I wasn't sure if the slight change in chemistry from the two different bases would make a difference. It did not. Very pleased with the detail.3rd: Strength/flexibility. Even after curing, this retains rigidity while still having just a little bit of play in it. It feels like it could withstand more of a drop than my previous resins. This makes me less nervous about printing minis that might get knocked off the gaming table. Don't get me wrong, I don't think it would survive a drop from 6ft, but I think it would fare better (less shatter) than other resins.4th: Reliability/print failures. OK, so this impressed me. I had a few plates that just refused to print on my previous resin. Something, somewhere would go wrong, if not be a complete failure. I know, sometimes it's luck of the draw. But I've printed between 5-10 plates on this already, and haven't had a single failure. All settings exactly the same as the opaque IPOH resin, didn't even adjust the FEP film tightness. Those 5-10 plates included several that had previously refused to print.5th: Print Clean up. I mean, you swish it in water like you used to do with IPOH. No vapors from your solution. And it cleans up perfectly fine. I thought maybe it wouldn't quite clean off everything without a harsher solvent. Nope. Perfect. Wipe down the plate or tray with a wet cloth. It actually leaves SIGNIFICANTLY less residue on the FEP. And by significantly less, I mean almost none. See my 6th point.6th: Salvaging resin. So, using the opaque resin, I would have to filter the remainder to get the artifacts or general nastiness out of the used resin in order to try and salvage some of it for future prints. It became milky and thick in some areas, and was just a pain to clean. The FEP would remain cloudy until I cleaned it one or two more times. Not with this. After my first plate, I pulled the vat out and was going to do my regular cleaning process. But I looked at it and saw no artifacts or blemishes in the liquid. I held it above my head and look at the light through it. Crystal clear. Nothing on the FEP, nothing floating, it looked perfect. "Hmm...why not?" I thought. I slid it back in, no cleaning at all, using exactly the same resin as the first print and ran another plate. Perfect print. I pulled it out and looked again. Clear. Let's do this. Perfect print. Checked again--clear. In fact, I haven't washed or replaced the resin at all in those 5-10 prints, and they're still coming out perfectly. I figure I'll keep going until I notice something.7th: Paintability. Once cleaned and cured, it takes (acrylic) paint with no priming. I put on a base coat of paint in whatever color I choose, but I don't use a primer per say. The paint stays on solidly and doesn't chip or wipe away like some other materials without primer, even after use. I know this won't matter to some people, but to my tablet top gamers out there that like to print their own minis--that's just one more thing you don't have to worry about. This surprised me. No idea if it works with non-acrylic options like oil based.I'm sticking with this product.

I was even able to cure at 2 seconds per layer instead of the 8 seconds for normal layers (they list 8 on the bottle).Only failed a couple of prints, my fault, because I didn't lay out the model correctly and I didn't use supports.A lot bigger learning curve to resin printers than my original FDM.The color isn't as red as I would like though. It's like a mix of red a fuchsia, but I didn't take a star off for that.Used about 3/4's of the 1000g bottle so far, and my prints look great.Sadly the price when up since I purchased it. $41 a whack gets pricey after a bit.People have complained that these resins leave a dry look to the model (and other resins), and they do, so I found that after your print is done, cleaned, dried, and cured, use a small paintbrush to apply a thin layer of resin to the entire surface area of the model. Then cure it again for 2-3 minutes. It will be glossy and look great!Posting pics of the green, one right out of the printer (after cleaning and curing), one using the method to make it glossy. I have the red, but also bought their green as well. Pics are the green resin.

This is a great resin for 3D printed miniatures. On my Mars 2 Pro (2k mono-screen printer) it shows amazing details, and doesn't seem as weak/brittle as some other water-washable materials I've used. If you've used standard resins before now you probably will need to beef up some of your model supports, but that's not a huge deal. Pre-supported models seem to do fine - I've had one or two minimally-supported models fail using this, but was able to add in some additional supports to easily fix the issue.The main benefit is ease of cleaning: I keep a bucket of water by my printer, which I swish my build plate in before transferring the models to an ultrasonic cleaner. When the water in the bucket and in my ultrasonic cleaner gets cloudy, I combine them in the bucket then put it out in the sun to cure the resin (which settles in the bottom). I then pour off the bulk of the water so the resin sludge in the bottom can fully cure for disposal.

I am super stoked about getting a 3d resin printer to practice painting miniatures. This resin printed great in an Elegoo Mars Pro 2. The printed models had a LOT of detail that is just astounding when coming from an FDM 3D printer like an Ender 3/5.Cleanup is super easy with just some water and a soft-bristle toothbrush. UV treating was a breeze. Then one of my boys happened and those nice appendages and attached swords, shields, guns and etc. just snapped off.I'm not mad at them. I dropped a model off my workbench and and it landed just right and the sword just broke off. There is no flex to absorb almost any kind of accidental impact.I'll probably continue to use this resin as to make parts like buttons and solid shapes without much detail just because of how brittle it is. I don't think any of these would survive a trip without some very particular packing much less any kind of fun play.I've read that the plant-based resin is much more flexible/durable but requires cleaning with isopropyl alcohol.

I've been trying out quite a few different resins, and while i am partial now to water washable resins due to the fact that they retain less residue after washing, I am regretting getting the gray Elegoo. I've run the Anycubic cure tests on it, and even though I have the settings set that look perfect from it, I continually have print failures. From supports breaking apart during printing to the base layers not sticking properly even with the cure time adjusted to try to compensate for it. I've ruined 3 FEP films with this Elegoo gray resin from parts falling off mid print and hitting it and damaging it. When it DOES print, the results are really nice, with great detail resolution and it stays solid. I just wish it wouldn't fail every other print. Out of the last 1kg bottle I got, I've wasted over a quarter of it with bad prints. That said, I have also tried the blue clear resin, and once I had the settings figured out, it made some wonderful prints. So much so that I'll probably keep using the clear blue. I'm moving back to the NOVA3D water washable for solid, far easier to get the settings right, shorter cure time, and FAR less failures (on the order of at the very least 1/5th the number of failures). Have to now get some more FEPs and a new bottle of resin so that I can get back to printing without worrying that I am going to have another failure.