SEAFLO 33 Series Water 110V AC Pressure Pump - 115V AC, 3.3 GPM, 45 PSI, Self Priming, Smart Pressure Switch, for RV/Caravan/Marine/Industrial Use-NSF, CE & Rohs Certified, UL Listed, 4-Year Warranty

This is a great pump for our food trailer. It is small, and still provides good water flow with little noise. It was simple to install, and seems like it will be very durable. It primed the system quickly and just works great. I recommend it.

bought this for the food truck. great unit, works great

Great pump i love it. It does exactly what we need it to and runs flawless plus it's super silent

Why did you pick this product vs others?: Good overall pump. I use it for my hydroponics system. It runs on a schedule. This pump is not intended to run continuously. It does run hot. It will be very hot to the touch after a couple hours of running. Good flow! We use the same pump in our RV and they work great in that application.

I am not a plumber, but consider myself pretty handy. This is the 4th and final pump I got from Amazon as part of the camp shower build process (NOT defective, just trying different options). Here's what I learned, hopefully this will be helpful to others who are building outdoor camping showers. 1. The pumps plastic male fittings don't match box store brass fittings. They likely won't leak in plastic-on-plastic installations, but if you're screwing a metal female fitting onto the pump's plastic male fittings, they won't fit and will leak, even though technically both will say 1/2". I used flexible 1/2" hose and some hose clamps to make it work and avoid brass to plastic fittings. 2. This is an on-demand pump. You plug it in, and it will sense if water is being requested anywhere in your system and start pumping. Plan to build a system that's as leak-free as possible or this pump will continue to cycle periodically. I built a prototype garden hose system, which was full of leaks, and this pump kicked on for a second every 15-20 seconds because it assumed I was requesting water (even though it was just leaks). If your system is leak-free, the pump will stay off and silent until you open a valve somewhere in the system. 3. I bit the bullet and bought the $70 PEX crimp tool, which greatly simplified building my shower system. You'll need the crimp tool, some metal ring clamps, and a few baggies of elbows, tees, splicers, and shut-off valves. I was able to build my system with zero leaks. If you're doing this, get white PEX 1/2" line, it can be used for hot/cold/any water, in other words, blue cold line, red hot line, and white neutral line are all identical and differ only cosmetically. Don't think you need to buy red line to run hot water, there's nothing inherently special about color lines - they are all the same, and the only reason they are colored is to tell them apart. 4. The pump is not silent and will vibrate, which means you'll need to attach it to some kind of a solid substrate very firmly. Mine is outside and the noise is not a problem, but if you're doing an RV/interior build, you'll definitely hear it kick on and work, especially if it's bolted to a hollow surface, like under the stairs. Find a way to bolt it to a cinder block or an anvil to dampen the vibration. 5. My system includes a shower and a sink for washing hands (same line, split via a T connector), and this pump is pretty amazing at supplying strong pressure across 10-15 yards through 1/2" PEX lines. You'll be able to take on-demand showers with serious pressure. My wife is still freaking out about the awesomeness of taking pressurized showers in the middle of nowhere. Apparently, gravity/solar showers are huge bummers with ladies who wish to wash their hair, who knew. Overall, if you also grab some flexible reinforced tubing with clamps to bypass brass-to-plastic size fitting size issue, you'll be able to build whatever you need. Strongly recommend.

It works just fine - with one exception - it's VERY LOUD! I even put some sound insulation around it. It comes on half a dozen times per day, for 16 seconds each time; so heat shouldn't be a problem. I'll keep trying to find a work around, but I may have to junk it, and take a chance on a different pump. UPDATE 11-9-25 - - WORSE THAN WORTHLESS! After less than two months the pump would no longer turn off automatically. I contacted the seller, who kindly shipped me a pressure switch, plus a spare one. And so I do not like leaving a poor review, especially when after changing the pressure switch, the pump resumed auto operation (with the same dismal results, as I shall explain) but in the interest of a useful review system, I must. Changing the pressure switch is just two screws and two wires, but it also means – again – having to drain the pipes, and somehow absorb the water that still comes out of the pump. WORSE THAN WORTHLESS! Because I did an awful lot of work for the pump – and for what! The pump is for a tankless toilet. First of all, I built a shelf for the pump suspended with 2x4s from the joists in the basement. But because the pump was VERY loud, I changed the shelf suspensions from 2x4s to fabric-like straps. Then I removed the screws holding the pump to the shelf, placed the pump on foam, and used straps to immobilize the pump. Then I added sound insulation in the area above and nearby the pump. After all this the pump was not as loud as before from upstairs, but still way too loud. While waiting to repair the pump, I plugged the pump onto a wireless RF AC switch, to be able to turn the pump on and off from upstairs, as needed. But because flushing with or without the pump seemed the same, I installed a pressure gauge between the pump and the toilet. When flushing started, the water pressure (per the pressure gauge – which I could monitor with a camera) dropped in half, from an average of some 40 PSI to 20. Turning the pump on, added only TWO PSI to the pressure – if that! Furthermore, if I didn’t turn the pump off before the flushing stopped, when the toiled snapped shut, the pressure jumped to over 100 PSI, and although I would turn the pump off immediately after flushing stopped, the pressure would take a long time to dissipate, so that after one minute, it would still be over 90 PSI. Concerned that the high pressure may damage the toilet’s seals, I installed a bypass pipe, from before to after the pump, which worked better than I expected. With the bypass pipe, the pressure after the flushing ended, and with the pump still on, would rise by some 5 PSI, and within less than a second, it would fall in line with the pressure in the rest of the house plumbing. As before, the pump continued to add two PSI (if that) to the flushing pressure. Now you understand “an awful lot of work”, and why (considering all the work) the pump is worse than worthless.

Great

Bought this little pump for use in my wife's pet grooming shop as well have no water connection out there so we purchased the pump and an 18 gallon water tank and it's worked great and we love the face it has the catch screen on the outlet side of the pump because no matter how hard we try we just can't seem to keep the dog hair out of the tank and running through the pump. Highly recommend this pump it works very well.

Like it very much. Cannot comment on reliability since it has only been is service a few days. Other than that it is a very nice unit. Just as noisy as old 12 volt units I have .. I installed a 2 or 3 gallon pressure tank so it does not always com one.

This pump is terrible. It shuts off after about 50 minutes of continuous use as it gets severely overheated. What good is a pump that can go for 50mins? Can't believe they sell this thing. It's also weak ad loud.

It does work and even somewhat feels like a miracle. You open the tap and the water starts flowing. It is extremely loud though. Unless you figure out a clever way to isolate the vibrations, your entire house (camper, boat, cabin) will vibrate like hell. You will need to think of building some kind of a soundproof chamber for it, unless you have a way of locating it outside where you won’t hear it. I also found the flow rate way too high for a regular shower. A typical shower head cannot allow that much water through which creates too much pressure and the pressure switch keeps cycling on and off about twice per second. This makes the noise and vibration even worse. There is an easy fix though. You need to adjust the bypass valve. The manual doesn’t tell you how to do it and even says that you shouldn’t. Thank God for Youtube. It’s very easy to do. Half a turn clockwise solved my problem. Hope this helps someone. Also, some other reviewers got confused by the included fittings as if it was some kind of irregular size. Actually, the thread connections on the pump itself are standard 1/2 inch NPT. Just buy a couple of 1/2 inch FPT to PEX adapters and you can easily plumb it into your system. Use a lot of teflon tape and be careful not to over-tighten as the threads are made of soft plastic and can be easily stripped.

Works great