Parts ExpressCast Frame #10-32 Speaker Mounting Kit

Don't have to worry about my 12 Inch sub-woofer speaker coming out of this particle board box with these installed. I used a ratchet to carefully tighten the connectors in first so they are pulled into the wood from behind and then removed the screw (until all of them are in place) and installed the speaker. Just take your time and everything works out well. This size was slightly big and the bolt barely fit through the speaker mount hole on my pioneer speaker but it is a nice tight fit. You can use a drill bit to slightly ream the speaker hole if necessary, BE careful!Also, Nice if you ever want to remove the speaker so you don't have to worry about breaking screw holes and drilling new holes.

The product will do what you want it to do...if you can get the t-nuts to stay put. This is the second time I've used T-nuts, and this experience was far worse than the first time. That said, if you can get them seated properly, these things will hold the mightiest of drivers in place. This is a two part system. There is a bolt that leads through the basket of the speaker, and a t-nut that is mounted underneath the baffle and bites into the wood, giving you a system that effectively clamps the speaker to the enclosure. If you are someone that has high powered sub stages, or someone that is constantly replacing drivers, these may be a good investment. It keeps you from chewing up the wood due to repeated screwing and unscrewing.The way these are supposed to work is you drill a hole, and place the bolt through a washer so you don't mar the wood. Then from the bottom of the baffle, you start the t-nut and pull ithe t-nut up and into the wood. This ensures you pull the t-nut straight into the wood unlike if you tap them into place with a hammer.This is all well and good, except for the fact that unless you drill a hole exactly right you will either end up drilling too big a hole, or too small a hole. If the hole is too big, you end up with an air leak. Too small, and you bend the "teeth" because pressure is being exerted on the shaft and not the prongs. This is the problem we had.I'll admit, our problem was due to inexperience and user error, but that doesn't make the product any easier to use. My suggestion is to use hurricane nuts and basically make your own kit. Hurrican nutswill be a little easier to use.Also, if this is fr a car audio application, I suggest using security screws to mount the subwoofer. This will help to limit the loss in the event of a theft. These screws are also available through Parts Express (they do sell on Amazon), and you will need a special tool to screw them in.

Used these to mount some 12" speakers into a custom built speaker cab. These worked like a champ. The T-nuts do a great job of digging into the baffle board (3/4" baltic birch ply in my case).

Perfect for mounting woofers in MDF.

Works great for a home made 1x15 bass cab I built but t-nuts are a little to big for such a small bolt size. Edges of t-nuts hang over the speaker opening on the baffle and the hole is almost exactly the right size for the speaker. Shipped quickly but cost too much. Twice as much as on the manufacturer’s web site.

too long for 3/4 wood, sticks out the front side if you mount the speakers from the inside

These are the best anti theft screws for my alpine 6x9's

It worked as expected