BIGTREETECH ADXL345 V1.0 3 axis Accelerometer Board (+-2g/4g/8g/16g)3D Printer Parts Sensor Module Support Klipper for 36MM Stepper Motor

I've used BTT CAN boards before, and they're really nice, but the EBB36 has three tiny surface mount components very close to the standoff holes. I was using standoffs that were already installed on the printer and while attaching the board I heard a tiny snap, and upon inspection noticed that a surface mount resistor had been snapped off the board by the standoff. I'm sure that if you used the included standoffs this would not be a problem, but be aware of these components, in my case, I ended up having to buy a new board.

First off, I'm running this on an Anycubic Vyper conversion with a Stealthburner and a CW2 extruder. I've rewired my entire printer to accommodate CAN, and I'm running this in addition to an SKR Mini V3 3.0 a RasPi 4 8 GB, and a Waveshare RP485 Can Hat. I've purchased two of these boards, which we'll talk about shortly.The EBB36 board comes with everything you need to get set up, including two Molex Microfit 3.0 connectors and pins, a few JST connectors and pins, and some jumpers for initialization and termination. Like most of these DIY boards, you'll need to crimp your own connectors to get things running. But, if you're adding CAN to your printer, you're probably already familiar with how to do this.Flashing Klipper was easy, you just pop on a jumper and plug into your RasPi. I used Canboot, and there is plenty of info on how to do the same on the internet/Reddit. Software and support is outstanding via the BIGTREETECH github pages.You do, however, have to be careful with the polarity of your components. I accidentally reversed the polarity on my part cooling fan, and ended up frying the mosfets on the first one of these I bought. In a manner of seconds, I saw the magic smoke and realized my mistake. But things were already cooked. So, make sure you have the pinout for the board in front of you, and you double-check all your connections before powering the board on.Also, if you use ferrules on your heater wires, it may be helpful to swap the heater connection block around, so the terminal entry points face the USB connector. Those connectors have never been reliable for me, so I removed the block altogether and soldered my heater wires directly to the board.On the plus side, I will say I really like the fact that the EBB36 comes with a 120 ohm resistor built in, as it eliminates the need for additional resistors on the CanBus controller. I also like the fact that this board is built to fit around a Nema 14 stepper motor. It makes the whole Stealthburner setup look very clean.That said, there is one more pain point that deserves your consideration if you're going to buy the EBB36: that is the abundance of communication errors. Even after checking all my wiring and software settings and replacing my CAN hat, I will still occasionally get BLTouch communication errors when homing.Trying to chase this issue has been absolutely maddening. Though it's pretty sporadic. I've tried changing settings in the mcu.py file, adjusting jumpers, and resetting baud and TX rates, but nothing seems to help. Even now, I still haven't figured out why these errors are occurring.Many of the forums seem to think this is a common issue with this tool head setup, though I don't have enough experience to validate that claim. If I do get to the bottom of it, I'll amend this review to help those who might have the same problem.Overall, the EBB36 is a cheap way to get CAN working on your 3D printer. Just understand that getting it set up correctly might require a significant amount of time and troubleshooting. But if you're anything like me, you got into the 3D printing hobby because you enjoy that stuff anyway.

**revised**Ok, I finally have it working. There were a few things going on... - If you have another device and it is using usb<->can bridge on another interface, it ends up breaking the discovery on the CAN interface the EBB is on- Once you try to query the status with the flash_can command, it may only show up temporarily.- Resetting the board with reset didn't work with 2 short clicks as set, but needed to be held down for a couple seconds, *THEN* 2 short clicks for the device to show on the CAN bus again - the above instruction was crucial, as just entering DFU mode then back to boot mode via Reset button alone (single or double click) would not put it back in boot mode consistently (and therefore, doesn't show on the CAN BUS)- I Still never got it to FLASH *OVER* CAN bus, but that isn't important for my usage as I can easily just plug the USB back inI know (from reading online forums, and the github) that I'm not the only one who had weird issues, but most of those just said (they kept trying, but it finally worked). The above explains WHY it worked if you just "keep messing with it", and why it seems so intermittent when following the (poorly written) instructions.*now* that I have it working, it seems to work fine from initial setup, but there was really no need for such inconsistent behavior without clear warnings.Same goes for Klipper's instructions for having other devices in USB<->CAN bridge mode as another CAN interface. There is a one sentence warning buried in the middle of a paragraph that it *might* cause issues to other CAN buses on the machine.** previous review below**I can only see it over USB and can flash the CAN image to the unit, but it won't show up on the CANBUS after flashing.I've tried 2 different CANBUS adapters (one a 2515 based, one cannable/candelight based).I've double checked all connections with a VOM, so I think I got a bad one :(How do I get a warranty replacement?

When I bought this board, I anticipated slapping it on the back of my Ender 5 direct drive extruder. Went on seamlessly (I used a 4 wire 42mm Nema 17). Only buy this product if you are proficient in wire crimping and wire connections. Uses several types and sizes of connectors to be prepared or else you might crimp wires with the wrong size prongs. Setup was seamless and worked well with my Skr E3 mini v3, rasp pi 3b+ and Btt CAN to Usb adapter. Generally speaking, great product, learning curve to the electrical installation.

I had to redo the wiring on my Ender 3 after making some major upgrades - moved to direct drive from a remote feed system, including an Orbiter - and had some REALLY long wire runs back to my control boards. I run Klipper so the option of using only four wires to bring all my hot end controls back to my Raspberry Pi sounded great. I mounted this on a point behind my print head as the board will not fit on the back of the NEMA14 motor like it would on a NEMA17. It did take a bit of programming work to get the CANBus set up in my printer config but now it is controlling the following: two fans, extruder motor, extruder heater, BLTouch, hotend LED and filament runout sensor.