System Three SculpWood Paste Wood Epoxy Filler, 4 oz, Brown

Love the Sculpwood/Endrot rot repair series - from the Borate solution, via the Endroot fluid epoxy, to the Sculpwood paste and putty epoxies. I've used tons of the stuff for patching up sidings, railings, deck beams etc. The paste is best for filling small cracks or tweaking your results once you've filled a bigger void with the putty variant and found imperfections with your job after some sanding. The stuff is not "elastic", so it's not recommended for filling gaps between moving parts such as railing tops hitting posts etc. Sculpwood was originally recommended to me by a seasoned painting expert in Napa CA, and I've never looked back.

I am giving this a five star rating after using to do some restoration on some 1937 windows that have diamond glass and are really a chestnut of the look of the house. There were significant issues with rot and galvanic rot in the Doug Fir used. These windows are south facing really get the sun / rain cycle here, the weather side. First task was to just get them freed of the many layers of paint. I want to add I was given some great advice on not just what had to done, but also the general workflow and order of work. By time this came into play I had already treated the wood and also used their StopRot product. Used the supplied gloves and starting with two ping pong ball size scoops, one from each container, found it very easy to work with. The lower rail on each window had significant repair needs as did the lower portion of both stiles. I used some oak lath with plastic barrier to form some very difficult 'lost portions' one of which is 1/4 inch wide by maybe 1/2 to 5/8 inch deep that hides the hinges. ! I have to say that coupled with the StopRot pre treatment I am extremely impressed. Really the same story goes for the repair of the window sill and fascia wood around the outside opening. Significant issues. And following the same process all the original shape returned. The working time, they recommend 15 minutes worth of mix at a time to start, was ample but as I say I had done some significant prep. I used metal putty knives to get the sill shape back. It does dry to a seeming soft and sandable texture and if you slightly overfill the sanding even say in a case like an ogee or double ogee shape can be matched with time and care. It really made a very difficult project possible and the restoration looks fantastic and I believe will last a good long time. The dried color is not a concern as I am painting all these areas.

I use this epoxy mixed with some fine sawdust (from table saw) in various amounts to get desired consistency. It adheres well to the wood on which I am applying it. It cures quite quickly to be hard as a rock. This makes it a bit of a beast to sand down for final smoothness, but with patience it is sandable. I used 60 grit random orbit which might be fine for wood, but for this something more like a grinder might be better if you have a large surface area. This season I did a large portion of a smallish 4x12 beam. Next season will be a bunch of 8x12 beams. I wish it were less expensive, however. It is very non-viscous, so it makes it very easy to spread. Adding sawdust thickens it up a bit, and as far as I can tell does nothing to adversely impact performance. I recommend highly with the caveat that it will cost you a premium for this premium product.

This rating is for the "u-TAH cartridge" that goes in a caulking gun, not the product inside, which is amazing. I attached the mixing tip, cut off the end, and proceeded to feed the product. About 2/3 of the way down the mixing tube there was a lot of resistance on the trigger. Finally, the industrial-strength gun started slipping so I gave up. All was not lost. I removed the tip, dispensed onto a board, mixed, and applied with a squeegee. As a solution, the endrot system is outstanding. I've use Board Defence, Rotfix, Sculptwood putty and paste together, and they are complimentary and easy to understand and use.

For some reason I have subsequently questioned, I turned a bowling alley floor into a 12' x 3' workbench. All came out of okay in the end, but it was not a fun journey. There were a lot of small cracks between the alley lumber. This material filled the cracks reliably and boy is this material strong. If you've used Bondo on a car, this is like the super strong version of that for wood. I will warn you to use is sparingly because putting it on wet is a lot more fun than taking it off dry. But it's great stuff.

This is the best wood filling product I have used for exterior work. It works great for filling cracks and holes back to level. The putty is a better product if you have a recreate a profile or have a complex shape. It is easy to mix up and apply. It is sandable after it sets, but is harder than the surrounding wood. You need to take some care to ensure you don't over sand the wood you are patching up.

This is only the 2nd epoxy wood filler product I've tried so far and probably the last because it's that good. It mixes quickly and effortlessly, it has a consistency that is not as stiff as peanut butter and a longer workable time.

This stuff has a place, but it's limited. Paste is MUCH better than putty for filling cracks, but much worse for everything else. The only reason I'm writing this review is that Paste gets a lot of good reviews which I don't think it deserves. Past is quite possibly the hardest stuff to handle I've found. It's like a silicon caulk - extremely sticky, hard to control, really makes a mess. The only way I could see using it effectively is if you have some what to put it in a big syringe, which is not something most people have. By contrast, putty is incredibly easy to handle. I will confirm what other reviewers have said. It dries absolutely rock hard and provides a good sandable & paintable surface.

A great product ! I’ve had excellent results