Wood Hardener & Repair

I have ordered this several times. I have a wood house in the jungle, so treating wood rot is an ongoing project. This stuff hardens very nicely. The watery consistency makes it easier to soak into wood, also easy to inject with syringe (my preferred method) than other liquid epoxies I have used. I’ve also used several other epoxy based wood filler products with it once it hardens and they have all adhered well. Good stuff.

Works great. As long as the wood gets saturated, it really works. I drilled shallow holes with 1/8" bit to give more surface area for it to work. I definitely recommend the product but I also recommend drilling those holes as the directions state.

Strangely enough, it works. I say that because it is a very watery liquid. Its not filling in cracks. But being watery it soaks down into the decaying wood you're interested in. Next day, wood is solid enough and you can put nails into it. I have outdoor parts that were done a few years ago, they are still firm and not rotting. That said, if you're looking to fill up cracks, you'll need something else.

I used this to repair and restore my almost completely mahogany rotten deck railing. I applied it as the simple instructions say, waited the appropriate time (in my case I needed to wait about18 hours for it to "cure" and it provided a hard surface that I could then apply the wood epoxy (same company) to. While it does not absorb the stain to provide the same color as before it really was not a problem for me since the finished product looked even better than I would have liked. After the final wood epoxy dried and I sanded it with the orbital sander, and then stained it, the finished product had "veins" of beautiful almond streaks within the darker "mahogany flame" Cabot stain that I used. I will post a picture here in a bit when I get the time. This product –The PC Products PC-Petrifier really does "petrify" your wood. It absorbs into the wood (first of course, you must clear away any of the truly loose particles and clean up the area that you must eventually fill with filler) after you either spray it on or brush it on (you can even pour it on if you want but I wanted more control so I put some into a spray bottle). Then just let it harden. I put a second application on some parts to make sure. Man, this stuff worked great. I never thought I could restore my railings (I was considering throwing one out) and I am so glad I found this product (and they also have a great wood epoxy). I am now a 100% believer.

Use for outdoor window area . Strong. Worked as described. Easy to use. Two applications.

Maybe I misused it but it didn't feel miraculous. I leave room for doubt

Excellent product. Great for a beginner homeowner who noticed a spot of soft wood and doesn’t want to call a contractor. Here’s how to use it: 1. Remove as much soft wood as possible from the area. The hardener will penetrate about 1/4 inch, so don’t leave more soft wood than that. If the wood just fells a little softer than you would expect, you’re good. If you can poke your finger into it or knock pieces off with your hands, it needs to be removed. -If applying to painted wood, sand off paint if possible. If not, drill as many holes through the paint and into the wood as you can. (This will only work with small areas with minimal damage!) -If applying to a vertical surface, you can drill small access holes (1/8 inch deep) to hold liquid in the wood long enough to penetrate, but this is not strictly necessary. 2. Apply hardener by squeezing the bottle and spreading the liquid with a brush. I got a large pack of 1 inch foam brushes cheaply, and they worked great. The foam made it much easier to apply to the underside of surfaces. 3. Apply to saturation. This means keep applying until the wood surface looks wet and the liquid isn’t immediately absorbed. This might happen with your first brushing, but is more likely to take 3-5, or more, brushings. 4. Check area 1-2 minutes later. If liquid has completely been absorbed, apply a bit more. When done applying, clean your brush with water and squeeze out excess water from the brush. 5. Check the surface in 5 minutes. If there is any standing liquid, remove excess with a paper towel. (Looking wet is perfect, but liquid forming puddles needs to be removed.) 5. Allow product to dry completely. This usually takes 12-24 hours. Do not allow wood to get wet during this time. If it does rain, the hardener will wash out, so you will need to start over. 6. Test area for hardness. If necessary, repeat application, again insuring that the wood is completely saturated. 7. Once area is completely hard, fill small holes with Plastic Wood (essentially air-dry clay) or larger areas with a 2-part wood epoxy filler. Overfill the area to allow for shrinkage. Allow to dry/cure. If you did not need to remove any wood, you still are likely to have small cracks in the wood. Push Plastic Wood into the cracks to prevent water trapping in the cracks in the future. 8. Sand filler until even with wood surface. Make sure that you are not sanding off your newly treated wood. 9. Cover entire treated area with a primer. Behr makes a great Multi Surface Primer that comes in a burgundy can. You must use paint over the primer, so don’t think it looks fine and stop! 10. Paint or stain wood. Use at least 2 coats, allowing to dry completely between coats. Make sure there are no unpainted areas or cracks where water can get into the wood. This is what causes the rot in the first place, and you don’t want to start over in a few months! (Hardened wood will look darker than untreated wood, so the area won’t look good if you use a transparent or semi transparent stain. If using a stain, go for a solid-color stain. If you don’t care about what it looks like and really want to use a transparent stain, don’t use primer first, but keep in mind that you will need to be reapplying stain to the area sooner than if you had used a primer.) That’s it!

Using this to stabilize old rotted timbers on a 100-year-old Tudor-style exterior. I had been using the Bondo wood stabilizer, which is a good product but it's spirit-based and smells awful and not good to breathe. This product is water based but still manages to absorb into the wood very effectively. Dries overnight (the Bondo product is faster, a couple of hours) You can kind of squirt it on a horizontal surface and brush it in. For vertical surface, I have found that the best method is to pour a little of this stuff into a party cup and use a cheap bristle brush (1 inch artist's brush works well) and just kind of dab it into the wood. The main purpose of this product is to harden the surface of rotted wood so there's a stable base for an epoxy putty (bondo or any of the specialty play-doh type putties.) which you use to fill the holes and recreate the shape of the wood. The putty itself is rock hard so it needs something hard to hold on to, otherwise the whole thing would fall apart when you shape and sand the hardened putty. Anyway I like this and the price (while not cheap) seems reasonable. This bottle will probably handle 5 or 5 square feet of wood surface that needs to be treated.

Works very well used it on woodworm damaged wood and rotten exterior wood. Takes longer to dry then solvent based products but has almost no smell so is brilliant to use indoors. Expensive but goes a long way. Won't be using solvent based hardener indoors ever again.

Ich suchte schon immer einen guten Härter. Ich mache in meiner Freizeit Papier Schmuck, und dafür suchte ich einen guten Härter um meine Schmuckstücke Alltags tauglich zu machen. Mit diesem Holzhärter hat es nach langen ausprobieren mit anderen Produkten endlich geklappt. Er Riecht nicht unangenehm und trocknet sehr schnell

Clean-up Tip for PC-Woody 2-pt epoxy – Wear disposable gloves. Use nail polish remover (acetone based) to clean working tools. (You can also use denatured alcohol). As soon as you’re finished using the 2-pt epoxy, wet a paper towel with nail polish remover and wipe your tools (metal or plastic); the sticky epoxy immediately melts away. In 2010 I first used PC-Woody petrifier and 2-pt epoxy filler to repair a cedar fence post and cedar gate which were splitting. Also, the screws for the gate hinges & latches were loose and falling out due to the cedar softening from old age (26 yrs). I applied 2 coats of the petrifier solution to harden the deteriorated sections and then filled the areas with 2-pt epoxy. Worked great – now 5 yrs later in 2016, the posts and screw holes are still hard as rock and the hinges & latches haven’t budged. In 2011 the fence was painted with 2 coats of water-based exterior solid stain which covered the repaired areas very well; still looks good today. This year my rough-cedar exterior stairs has tiny vegetation growing on top of the top two treads, as well as on top of my cedar picnic table. I have no idea what type of plants they are (could be lichen), but they have bright tiny orange/yellow flowers with short white roots. Warning – get rid of plant growth in wood as soon as you see it! Unfortunately, if left too long the vegetation eats and rots the wood from inside out making it soft and spongy. I sprayed twice with 50/50 bleach & water solution to kill the vegetation and covered the area with plastic to keep out the rain. After the vegetation died, I dug out the soft rotted wood portions, which left huge voids in the treads. I applied 3 applications of PC petrifier which hardened the rotted sections. Using a plastic putty knife/spatula, I filled the voids with PC 2-pt epoxy on 3 different days in order to build up the damaged area and allowed the epoxy to dry 24-hrs between each application. The epoxy is now hard as rock ready to sand and paint. After sanding with coarse-grit sandpaper, I painted using Benjamin Moore water-based solid stain, which covered the repaired areas without any problem. The stain on the repaired areas dried slightly lighter than the wood, but it’s by far a vast improvement over the rot-damaged look. The finished top tread looks a bit rougher in grain texture, rather than totally smooth, but I needed the rest of the epoxy to repair the picnic table. Since the stairs are made from rough cedar, I’m not too concerned, as the wood already has a naturally rough appearance. Time will tell as to whether it will maintain its weight-bearing strength and although the top tread sustained considerable wood rot, it now feels completely solid and safe. For the stairs I used 1 1/3 (16-oz) bottles of petrifier and 1 1/3 (12-oz) cans of 2-pt epoxy; the remainder I used for the picnic table. Overall, I’m very pleased with the finished result and highly recommend PC-Woody petrifier and 2-pt epoxy for similar repairs.

I bought this to treat an old wood window (circa 1940’s) sill. It was super easy to use and the window sill is definitely hard. I also purchased the 2 part wood epoxy. Together the window sill has been rescued from the landfill and I don’t have to replace the window (for a few more years anyway). I am going to try to petrify a soft spot in my boat with the remainder of my first bottle. Have purchased a second bottle as well as the wood epoxy to do some touch ups at the cabin. I’m very pleased with results from PC Products Petrifier.

It is a little early to judge this product because I bought it to make paper beads and haven't started yet: It was delivered in reasonable time and arrived safely!