Thermaltake TH360 V2 Ultra ARGB Sync/AlO Liquid Cooler/ARGB Fan 120 * 3/PWM 500~1500rpm/Water Block 2.1" LCD/Black, CL-W384-PL12SW-A

As a builder who has run the gamut from air towers to custom loops, the Thermaltake TH360 V2 Ultra is the most balanced AIO I’ve integrated into a build. It successfully bridges the gap between "enthusiast performance" and "showpiece aesthetics." Thermal Performance & Acoustic Profile: Testing this on a Ryzen 7 9800X3D , the 360mm radiator surface area is more than sufficient. Under a sustained 30-minute Cinebench loop, my temps stabilized at 35°C which is an impressive level of performance; the PWM fans remain remarkably quiet at the 1200rpm mark. The 500-1500rpm range is perfectly tuned, inaudible at idle, but powerful when the TDP spikes. The 2.1” LCD Display (The X-Factor): The resolution on the 2.1" screen is surprisingly sharp. Using the TT RGB Plus 2.0 software, the customization is intuitive. I transitioned from monitoring real-time GPU/CPU temps to uploading custom weather-informed GIFs. It’s bright, the viewing angles are wide, and it doesn't suffer from the "washed out" look of cheaper LCD blocks. Installation & Cable Management: Thermaltake clearly listened to feedback on the V2. The fan interlocking/cabling is streamlined, which made the "cable-tuck" phase of my build 20 minutes faster than usual. The mounting bracket for AMD was sturdy and provided even pressure across the IHS. Pros: Visual ROI: The LCD transforms the look of the entire interior. Daisy-Chain Efficiency: Significant reduction in cable clutter. Versatility: High thermal ceiling for overclocking, but quiet enough for a studio environment. Cons: Software Dependency: To get the most out of the LCD, you must be comfortable with the TT software suite (ensure you have an internal USB 2.0 header available and 5V rail header). Footprint: It’s a beefy 360mm radiator; verify your case clearance for mounting. Final Verdict: If you are building a "zero-compromise" rig where you want to see your data and your style simultaneously, this is the unit. It justifies the "Ultra" moniker through build quality and ease of use. 5/5 Stars.

This unit works perfectly, and it drops the temperature radically. I installed the 360mm version in my media server this morning and then ran the Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool to see how it fared. SERVER INFORMATION: Intel i7 4790k processor ASRock Z97 Extreme 6 board 16 GB Ripjaws PC3 12800 RAM Corsair RM850X power supply MSI GeForce GTX 1070 video card 10 hard drives (9 internal and 1 external) Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-ray drive Thermal take Water 3.0 Triple Riing RGB 360 water cooler PERFORMANCE: --- IPDT64 - Temperature Monitor Results --- Temperature Test --- ... Version 1.0.12.64b.W ... 57 degrees C below maximum Test Result - PASS Expected Greater than 1 degrees below max Received 57 degrees below max This result is amazing, and I cannot say how happy I am with it. The cooler was purchased for my media server that is used for transcoding 1080p video. Before adding this cooler, I could get over 200F when transcoding multiple streams with the processor NOT overclocked. This was unacceptable, so I sought out a better solution. With this cooler, my maximum reading (on only one core) has been 170F when transcoding multiple streams AND overclocking the processor to 4.7ghz. I have been stress testing the server this whole afternoon with the processor overclocked and the temperature has never gotten above 176F. This result was with all cores of the processor pegged to maximum. INSTALLATION: Installation is not terribly difficult, but it does take a bit of time. You will need to remove the fans from the top of your case, to prepare for the install. The radiator comes without the fans attached, so you can choose to push or pull air through it. You will need to attach the fans to the radiator, then I would recommend installing the radiator to the case before connecting the pump to your processor. Attaching the pump to the processor is simple, as the unit comes with clever brackets that can be configured for basically everything. You will attach a backplate on the back of your motherboard; it attaches with sticky tape. You will need to choose the proper ring for either Intel or AMD, then follow the directions for setting the width of the screw holes. Select the proper thumbscrews for your processor, and press them into the holes on your connector ring. Once you have the connector ring set up for your processor, remove the protective cover from the pump and carefully attach it to the connecting ring, then put the locking ring over it to secure it in place. The pump comes with thermal paste already properly applied to the face, so you can now put the pump up in place, locating the screws into the screw holes in the backplate and screw the pump down securely. Simply connect the pump to your CPU fan connector, connect the light/fan controller to another CPU fan connector on your board, then connect the fans to the controller. This process took me about 20 - 30 minutes, as I was careful, and took my time. You should be able to do it in about the same time if you are careful... faster if you are in a hurry. :) I cannot recommend this cooler highly enough. FIVE STARS

Great cooler! My CPU Never goes above 68°C! Works perfectly, and comes ready to install off the bat, and is an easy install. RGB works perfectly, and fans compete with Noctua fans in silence. Would recommend

Anther Update: Just got the 280V2 This is my third AIO from TT and obviously I like them! The 280 was able to keep my 14700k down to 80c at 100% sustained load. The great surface area and lager fans do a great job of cooling. I havnt decided if I like the new LCD on the pump as it is not quite as bright as the LED version, but it is a larger pump and performs great. Fan colors are decent, but more importantly they cool the radiator. I am using a pull configuration exhausting the heat for best results. UPDATE: I have gone through quite the upgrade process. I originally got the 120 AIO as it was the only one that would fit in my case. the 120 worked very well, but my temps were still a little high on this 13700k, so I decided to get the 240 since my case supports it now. I got the same brand since IO was happy with the 120 and all the mounting brackets are the same. I left my two fans in the front of the case and decided on a pull configuration. Had to rewire 3 fans and the new pump so that took a while re doing the cabling. And then figuring out which way to orient the pump to minimize the stress on the water lines. Initial testing was great with Idle temps between 38-41 and peak temps of 81. After putting all the side covers and front panel back on I got idle temps around 45 and peak temps between 86-90. I wasnt getting much airflow out the front of the case so I took the front panel off and for now am leaving it off. I am back down to idel 37-38 and peak temps of 81-85. So I have reduced both my idle temps by about 6 degrees and peak temps by 15-20 degrees. And this AIO is super responsive as the watts come down the temps come down. I also did play with all of my fan settings for the pump and fans. I happen to use the stair instead of slope and also have the fans running at a higher percentage than the pump up until about 55 degrees to IMO keep the radiator as cool as possible. If you have room in your case the 240 definitely works better than the 120. I think the brand is good and both these pumps work great. As a side note, before I upgraded to the 240, I ran a tube from my window AC into one of my input fans and near the back of the case where the radiator was. It made the radiator cold and all my internal temps were in the 20's and my high temp was around 60. I havnt tried that with the 240 yet. With everything so low in temps I gained 1000 points on my CPU benchmark. :) ORIGINAL REVIEW: Lots of parts, not the greatest of instructions, but does a great job of cooling down the hot running I7 13700k processor. I had a little trouble getting the radiator to mount in place of my rear fan, so I ended up using the fan to pull across the radiator instead of pushing through it. My case just wasnt quite big enough for the radiator to replace the old case fan. I mounted the radiator first so I could figure out the best rotation of the pump to minimize any pull on the hoses. It would have been a lot faster had the radiator fit perfect, the mounting holes were a bit off from my case, but I just used 2 screws diagnol to mount it securely. This is my first water cooled system, so I was pretty leary of any leaks and still probable a little shy about having water in my case. But, my new processor was running so hot that I had to do something and thins was easier to install than some of the air cooled options and even cheaper. I dont have room for a 6" tall heatsink and fan and this fit the bill. Performance wise, I ran several CPU benchmarks and peaked at 95 c for a split second before it dropped below 60. The bulk of the CPU stress test, was around 60. The unit kicked in quickly and brought my temps down just as fast. Idle temp is around 41. As a bonus, my CPU mark actually increased anywhere from 900-1300 over what I was getting prior to this install. Basically I roughly went from 43000 to 44000 just by installing this unit. Honestly, I can probably squeeze more out of it because I had several background tasks running that I normally shut off. The power are all 3 pin not 4 and I am still not 100% sure of which MB plugs to use. I plugged the fan into the cpu fan header and the pump into the cpu pump/fan option header, but I also have another pump header on the MOBO. So IDK. The RGB lights plugged into my 4 pin on the MB and worked. I didnt test the included remote nor did I play around with the lighting. I was mostly concerned about the heat situation, which this thing rocked. There is an insane amount of wire length for the Lighting connections. Overall, this thing is great, does a great job of cooling and is quiet.

TLDR; Buyer Beware. Parts WILL break and you'll be out a CPU cooler. If you have a 7800x3D like me, you'll also be out a computer too. The temps aren't amazing enough to justify the extra effort and money you'll use to get it working. Use the extra money to buy a better CPU cooler. TEMPs: Temps seem to float anywhere around 45c to 65c idling. I do have a AMD Ryzen 7800x3D so they do tend to run a bit high. Honestly just "meh". PROs: Installation was a breeze. However, most CPU coolers will have a similar level of ease. The quality, feel, and aesthetic of the product is deceptively great despite everything. CONs: QC doesn't seem to exist at Thermaltake. The first unit I received wouldn't connect to their software. I sent email request for support and the conclusion they came to was to just have me send the entire unit back. The second unit arrived a week and a half later. This unit worked like a dream... for three days. After the third day the LCD unit would no longer turn on. The software used to control the CPU block is outdated and clunky. It works, but they didn't put much thought into anything else. The program will fight you every part of the way while you use it. TIPs: Be sure to keep all your receipts and records as you'll need it for the eRMA / exchange process. Last Thoughts: Get something else. The extra money it took for me to ship the AIO to them would have afforded me a better CPU cooler. I bought a CPU cooler with a LCD screen for a reason. If the LCD screen refuses to cooperate then whats the point. Unfortunately, I can't even take a screenshot of their outdated LCD block options screen since the LCD block isn't working again. It looks nice, but it isn't worth it. Overall, I would give it one star just for the aesthetics (that don't even work). Good luck if you buy this product.

I have so far bought two of these CPU coolers for both of my Ryzen series CPU. They work fine and is one of the simpler installation/setup for AM5 motherboards that I used. It keeps both of my CPUs (Ryzen 7800x3d and 7950X) super cool like under 30 degrees Celsius. So, I can't complain. The only time it may go higher is when I actually stress test both systems initially. These coolers with both of my systems, systems' fans does an excellent job at keeping the CPUs cool. I could probably get better temps if I undervolt both CPUs but it working fine for my needs so I'm not going to mess with those types of overclock options.

I don't understand what some bad reviews talked about with keeping it connected. Has to be user error and I can only figure they are misunderstanding that with the controlling software, you have to click the other tab in the program for the the screen options as by default, it looks for a controller that I do not use and shows can't connect to controler like some have posted. This is however just referring to it looking for a rgb controller not the AIO. If you click the tab for lcd screen, you will likely find it is ik fact communicating fine. The software isn't the best honestly but functional. I am getting great temps though and I have had zero issues with the screen. Been using this for a couple months now with heavy use and have never lost any connection. Very solid and easy to install. For a aio with screen, this was a great value.

Instructions have never been a strong point for just about any product, but the instructions provided by the Thermaltake TH360 take 'bad instructions' into a whole new universe. First, you get one page with 'documentation' for all configuration. It contains no words, just images. But wait, there's one of those square box things you scan with your camera and it says it will take you to the web site to get the instructions. So I scan it, go to the web site, and ... it's exactly the same as the piece of paper. It even has the piece to scan to take you to the place where you already are. I guess they figure you'll get caught in an endless loop and never be able to break out and call for help. OK. Fine. There's videos online. Oh, youtube has two Thermaltake Australia videos. Nice. But they are only for AMD. The intel LGA1700 has a different bracket. OK. I'll watch the videos since they are most likely just the same but use a different bracket. OH. Take of the back plate... bla bla bla... OK. I got it. So I look at the brackets and I have one for AMD, one for LGA1700 and one for something like x115 or whatever. The LGA1700 and X115 ones seem to be the same. That's strange, but oh well. So I take the back plate off, put the LGA1700 one one and... it doesn't seem to screw in. That's strange. And the sticky part that is exposed after you peel off the paper is in the air. It doesn't touch the motherboard. It's almost as if... Oh. You DO NOT remove the back plate on the intel. The instructions just show the top of the motherboard with arrows pointing up to the bottom but never actually show the back plate. To be fair, they don't say to take the back plate off, but then again they don's say anything. I did look for other videos online and the only one I found talking about the TH 360 had the guy unboxing it but then saying "and I'll install it off camera..." So then what was the point of the video? Fail city. Fine. Back plate back on. TH360 back plate sticks correctly. I'm good. What's next. Oh, the screws. So the silver screws are for the LGA1700 and the black screws are for the x115 or whatever it is. I try to put in the silver screws and they won't fit. I try as much as I dare without forcing the screws and breaking them and they just won't go in. OK. Let me think. What are the chances they got the screws backwards? Let me try the black ones. Oh, they DO work. So they must have gotten it backwards, right? Let me try the silver ones in the other bracket. Nope don't work there either. Only the black ones work. So two identical back plates and two sets of screws. The black screws work with the one they are labeled for as well as the other one while the silver screws don't work on anything. I know you are probably thinking those must be for the AMD bracket, but the documentation clearly shows that the silver screws go to the LGA1700 back plate and the silver screws do not work on that. Fine. Fine. It's all good. So I get the CPU set up with the cooler. Lets connect the power cables. OK. Hmm. There are two power connectors. Oh, the documentation shows parts Y and Z. Let me see what those are. The parts list only goes up to "P". So how are these labeled parts "Y" and "Z" but not shown in the parts list? Oh, they are the ends of the cable connected to the fan. But the end parts of the cable have no writing on it indicating "Y" or "Z". So what's the point in labeling something "Y" and "Z" in the documentation if those letters show up nowhere else in the documentation or on actual parts? I don't understand how a company can spend all this time and effort to come up with a product and then be so negligent when it comes to telling you how to use it. How much money is saved by putting out crappy documentation and how much does it cost in customer support and returns to deal with the fallout from that? I'm not a business person, so maybe it works out OK but I can definitely say that thermaltake has taken documentation to a whole new low. Hopefully this information will help anyone who is confused with the documentation. Maybe I just missed something or misunderstood, but considering the brevity of the documentation that's not really too difficult to do. There are enough reviews about the hardware, but I'm thinking if you can't figure out how to set it up the best component in the world is not very useful.