Progressive International Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW30 Hardwired RV Surge and Electrical Protector - 30 Amp

Camper: 2008 Palomino Yearling Y-4125 (aka Pop up camper, aka Tent Camper). Camper Converter: WFCO WF-8725P Ultra III Power Center Product Installed: PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES EMSLCHW30 Surge Protector - the data display is a card internal to the box, not separate. This is not the external unit that you just plug and play to the shore power pole at the campsite. This model has several things about it that I liked better than the other models: 1) Internally installed - can't leave it behind accidently, can't easily be stolen from the shore power pole. 2) The display is internal to the box - no data wires or other box to install The card can be installed in any of 4 90 deg angles (which is a huge plus for the installation site I chose). More on that later. 3) Even though the document mentions an EMS bypass, because it does not have the separate display box/data wire, it also does not have the bypass switch - which quite frankly, why in the heck would you EVER bypass the very thing you want the dang thing to do? 4) Basically you install it, and forget it unless you need to service it or check it- which they have made pretty easy to do as field replaceable units to the box and the display rotates its status about every 15 seconds automatically. So the total time it took me to install (open box, RTFM 3 times, scouting out what where all wires are/go/do/connected BEFORE I did anything, locating the best spot to actually install it), and then actually doing the work installing it was about 1 1/2 hours (including cleanup and test). The WFCO power converter box in my camper is in a compartment under the table and the power cord was directly connected into it on the backside. Easily accessible from the front for all fuse/breaker operations, and all AC/DC wires from the backside. If you see the image I included, the main power cord comes in from the right, so I oriented the box upside down to put the input side closest to that. I had to orient the display 180deg from "normal" so that the data would display as I expect to read it. That is easy to do as the card plugs into the slot in any of 4 positions. Even though the errors code meanings are printed on the front "upside down" by what I did, I only need to look at the display whenever there is a problem, and all I have to do is raise the lid to the compartment and view the display at any time. By putting the box inside the compartment with the converter, I don't have to see the red led lights flash the status data all night long - which quite frankly would be super annoying to me! When I want to see what it is doing, I just raise the lid and look at it and when I don't, I just keep the lid closed. I chose this site because it would be out of the way, out of sight, and had plenty of space around it to "breathe" as it does not have its own fan to keep it cool (like the converter box does). I also removed the jumper to set the time delay to 2 minutes. I would rather have time to diagnose what happened than have it reset after 15 seconds and possibly do it again. The AC/Heat unit I had installed on the camper may or may not have an auto delay, but why chance it? I was able to quickly find out that my 3way fridge uses only 1A, the AC unit uses about 17A at startup, and settles in at about 12 to 14A for normal ops. I only had to add my own 4 wood screws to mount the box to the backside wall of the compartment. I chose to put it up off the floor in case of water leaks, etc. Not including the 4 screws is understandable as the manufacturer has no idea where/how you are going to put it, and they probably don't want to include a bunch of differing kinds of screws, nuts, bolts. So to summarize: Relatively easy to install with just a few tools (wire cutter, wire stripper, assorted screw drivers (flat, phillips, square, crimper, pliers, electrical tape) was all I used. If you scout out where you want it ahead of time, you can get/purchase the necessary 4 attachment devices to do the job. Cons: Only 1. The red led lights are too bright for nighttime and the manufacturer either needs to add a switch to allow the owner to turn them off, or dim them. What I recommend however is a small back lit LCD that displays the same data, but has a small button to control the back light on/off so I can see it at night when I want to and when not on, will not annoy the crap out of folks at night. Like my watch used to have. Now, because I installed mine in an enclosed compartment, it is not a problem for me, but I have read other reviews of this unit (and the one with the separate display box) and almost everyone says that it is annoying. So far, I have used this device to determine that I do not have a "hot skin" condition in my camper. This is the #1 reason I bought it. I did not think I did, but the last time I used the camper, we got low voltage zaps touching the door, and I got the bejesus zapped out of me touching the hot water heater (and it is gas, not electric, and all power to it is DC, nor AC). The camp's service men said they did not have a shore power problem and supposedly checked it out, but the two campsites I used it at before and when I have it plugged up on my 30A circuit on my garage at home, nothing. The camp was completely full that weekend, so I believe that there may have been some feedback from one or another campsite near us. In addition to this unit, I also bought a NCVT (non-contact voltage tester - aka Klein tool) to constantly monitor all metal surfaces of my camper AND my electrical power outlets I use. I already have a multi-meter and a common house AC outlet checker too. I will never leave home without all 3 and will ALWAYS check the shore power boxes BEFORE I connect up again! I will also make sure that ALL of my outdoor power cords are solid and not causing problems either!

This unit failed while only using my AC unit drawing 13 to 15 amps. The relay contacts failed and cause excessive heat and internal damage. No response from Progressive Industries when contacting them.

Great product, but says on unit label that it is made in USA. Yet product details as well as AI Rufus says it is made in china.

I was just barely able to fit this hefty surge suppressor in the original converter box. I had to cut our part of the bottom to do it. I thought I ordered the version with the remote but I guess not. Confusing product labeling. So without the remote I drilled a couple of holes in the converter cover to see the led messages. Now the new converter charger and other equipment is protected from bad power.

Installed this myself with little trouble. It's not rocket science but you do need to pay attention. The instructions and markings on the inside of the case are sufficient to get everything put in the right place, but they are not "for dummies". If you understand what this device does and how the electricity in your RV works, there is no issue. If you aren't already familiar with wiring up 120V AC devices, consider having installation done by someone more experienced. I don't think it's mentioned anywhere in the description but you can re-orient the readout in 90-degree increments by installing the display module inside the case in one of 4 positions. So you have more options for locating it conveniently and still being able to read the display. I've had my RV in a workshop since installing this but already it's done it's job: The RV was plugged in to a 240V receptacle via a typical "50A to 30A converter" cable, and one of the 120V legs of that receptacle dropped to 5V due to a utility issue. The Surge Protector disconnected the RV from shore power and showed an error that let me quickly determine the issue, no harm done to my pricey inverter/charger. I was pleased! The more electronics you have in your rig, the more you should have one of these. Protect your equipment!

I highly recommend this product for anyone what doesn't want to lug around a portable surge protector and risk losing it or getting it stolen. I love it, I do have it in my 2006 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel. Couldn't be happier!

We intentionally picked this one because it says proudly made in the USA and the videos show how easy to install and the easy read remote display let's you see what's going on. It's true BAIT and SWITCH. Arrived showing assembled in Mexico and the remote display isn't included.

Had to add bypass switch on cover. Little tricky finding a good location because of size But I like this better than the cord ones

Just waiting for my water pressure Gage

Current reads 1 Amp with Air Conditioner on. So after hearing for the last year how these units protect the RV and let you know when the campground is wired wrong I pulled the trigger and bought one. Not Cheap but if it saves me once that's all I need and since I will be recharging batteries from a generator while boondocking I thought some monitoring would be appropriate. This has been a disappointment from the start. The biggest problem is that it doesn't fully work. The current reading never goes above 1 Amp even with my AC on so that's not right. I grab the installation instructions and they are for the 50A unit and I guess I'm expected to extrapolate for the 30A unit. The picture for the 30A unit shows the current sensor just sitting on top of the display board uninstalled - not helpful. Here's what ticks me off, the instructions specifically state that the current sensor is to be installed with the arrows pointing at the contactor. My current sensor has no arrows! I'm going to suppose that they changed supplier and are using different current sense transformers abut they could have either marked them or changed the manual. Giving me a manual that doesn't match the product they shipped is very unprofessional! So I tried the current sensor in both directions but don't get a correct reading either way. Lastly - and I'll admit this is nit picky - would it have killed them to include two split ring washers for the ground connections? Was that a cost they couldn't afford? Let me add that I am an Electronics Engineering Technologist with 25 years of experience repairing power circuit boards. If I have trouble with this kit then I can easily see that DIYers with less experience could also run into problems. I would NOT recommend this to anyone without a high level of electrical/electronic experience.