---
product_id: 70848562
title: "Progressive International Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW30 Hardwired RV Surge and Electrical Protector - 30 Amp"
brand: "progressive"
price: "₨219210"
currency: LKR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 10
category: "Progressive"
url: https://www.desertcart.lk/products/70848562-progressive-international-progressive-industries-ems-lchw30-hardwired-rv-surge-electrical
store_origin: LK
region: Sri Lanka
---

# Adjustable 2-min time delay 30 Amp surge protection Hardwired DIN rail mount Progressive International Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW30 Hardwired RV Surge and Electrical Protector - 30 Amp

**Brand:** progressive
**Price:** ₨219210
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Protect your RV power like a pro—never get caught off-guard again!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Progressive International Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW30 Hardwired RV Surge and Electrical Protector - 30 Amp by progressive
- **How much does it cost?** ₨219210 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.lk](https://www.desertcart.lk/products/70848562-progressive-international-progressive-industries-ems-lchw30-hardwired-rv-surge-electrical)

## Best For

- progressive enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted progressive brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Ultimate RV Power Guardian:** Automatically cuts power outside 104-132V range to protect your rig.
- • **360° Rotatable Status Card:** Internal display card rotates for perfect viewing angle—no extra wires or boxes needed.
- • **Discreet Nighttime Operation:** Install inside compartments to avoid annoying LED glare while staying fully protected.
- • **Customizable Delay for Safety:** Settable 2-minute delay prevents rapid cycling and protects sensitive appliances.
- • **Seamless Internal Installation:** Hardwired design with internal display keeps your setup sleek and theft-proof.

## Overview

The Progressive EMS-LCHW30 is a hardwired 30 Amp surge protector designed specifically for RVs, providing advanced 3-mode surge protection, reverse polarity, and open neutral detection. It automatically disconnects power when voltage falls outside the safe 104-132V range and restores it after a customizable delay. Its internal, rotatable display card offers clear status updates without external wiring, making it theft-resistant and ideal for discreet installation. Lightweight and DIN rail mountable, it’s engineered for millennial RV owners who demand reliable, hassle-free electrical safety on the road.

## Description

Whenever electrical power falls below 104 volts or rises above 132 volts, the EMS automatically shuts down power to the RV. Once the AC electrical power rises above 104-volts, or below the 132-volt level, the time delay indicator flashes for the preset time and then automatically restores power to the RV. Features 3-mode surge protection, reverse polarity protection, open neut

Review: Have proper tools, Scout out everything before you do anything, Take your time. Not hard to do. - Camper: 2008 Palomino Yearling Y-4125 (aka Pop up camper, aka Tent Camper). Camper Converter: WFCO WF-8725P Ultra III Power Center Product Installed: PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES EMSLCHW30 Surge Protector - the data display is a card internal to the box, not separate. This is not the external unit that you just plug and play to the shore power pole at the campsite. This model has several things about it that I liked better than the other models: 1) Internally installed - can't leave it behind accidently, can't easily be stolen from the shore power pole. 2) The display is internal to the box - no data wires or other box to install The card can be installed in any of 4 90 deg angles (which is a huge plus for the installation site I chose). More on that later. 3) Even though the document mentions an EMS bypass, because it does not have the separate display box/data wire, it also does not have the bypass switch - which quite frankly, why in the heck would you EVER bypass the very thing you want the dang thing to do? 4) Basically you install it, and forget it unless you need to service it or check it- which they have made pretty easy to do as field replaceable units to the box and the display rotates its status about every 15 seconds automatically. So the total time it took me to install (open box, RTFM 3 times, scouting out what where all wires are/go/do/connected BEFORE I did anything, locating the best spot to actually install it), and then actually doing the work installing it was about 1 1/2 hours (including cleanup and test). The WFCO power converter box in my camper is in a compartment under the table and the power cord was directly connected into it on the backside. Easily accessible from the front for all fuse/breaker operations, and all AC/DC wires from the backside. If you see the image I included, the main power cord comes in from the right, so I oriented the box upside down to put the input side closest to that. I had to orient the display 180deg from "normal" so that the data would display as I expect to read it. That is easy to do as the card plugs into the slot in any of 4 positions. Even though the errors code meanings are printed on the front "upside down" by what I did, I only need to look at the display whenever there is a problem, and all I have to do is raise the lid to the compartment and view the display at any time. By putting the box inside the compartment with the converter, I don't have to see the red led lights flash the status data all night long - which quite frankly would be super annoying to me! When I want to see what it is doing, I just raise the lid and look at it and when I don't, I just keep the lid closed. I chose this site because it would be out of the way, out of sight, and had plenty of space around it to "breathe" as it does not have its own fan to keep it cool (like the converter box does). I also removed the jumper to set the time delay to 2 minutes. I would rather have time to diagnose what happened than have it reset after 15 seconds and possibly do it again. The AC/Heat unit I had installed on the camper may or may not have an auto delay, but why chance it? I was able to quickly find out that my 3way fridge uses only 1A, the AC unit uses about 17A at startup, and settles in at about 12 to 14A for normal ops. I only had to add my own 4 wood screws to mount the box to the backside wall of the compartment. I chose to put it up off the floor in case of water leaks, etc. Not including the 4 screws is understandable as the manufacturer has no idea where/how you are going to put it, and they probably don't want to include a bunch of differing kinds of screws, nuts, bolts. So to summarize: Relatively easy to install with just a few tools (wire cutter, wire stripper, assorted screw drivers (flat, phillips, square, crimper, pliers, electrical tape) was all I used. If you scout out where you want it ahead of time, you can get/purchase the necessary 4 attachment devices to do the job. Cons: Only 1. The red led lights are too bright for nighttime and the manufacturer either needs to add a switch to allow the owner to turn them off, or dim them. What I recommend however is a small back lit LCD that displays the same data, but has a small button to control the back light on/off so I can see it at night when I want to and when not on, will not annoy the crap out of folks at night. Like my watch used to have. Now, because I installed mine in an enclosed compartment, it is not a problem for me, but I have read other reviews of this unit (and the one with the separate display box) and almost everyone says that it is annoying. So far, I have used this device to determine that I do not have a "hot skin" condition in my camper. This is the #1 reason I bought it. I did not think I did, but the last time I used the camper, we got low voltage zaps touching the door, and I got the bejesus zapped out of me touching the hot water heater (and it is gas, not electric, and all power to it is DC, nor AC). The camp's service men said they did not have a shore power problem and supposedly checked it out, but the two campsites I used it at before and when I have it plugged up on my 30A circuit on my garage at home, nothing. The camp was completely full that weekend, so I believe that there may have been some feedback from one or another campsite near us. In addition to this unit, I also bought a NCVT (non-contact voltage tester - aka Klein tool) to constantly monitor all metal surfaces of my camper AND my electrical power outlets I use. I already have a multi-meter and a common house AC outlet checker too. I will never leave home without all 3 and will ALWAYS check the shore power boxes BEFORE I connect up again! I will also make sure that ALL of my outdoor power cords are solid and not causing problems either!
Review: failed unit - This unit failed while only using my AC unit drawing 13 to 15 amps. The relay contacts failed and cause excessive heat and internal damage. No response from Progressive Industries when contacting them.

## Features

- Package Dimensions: 21.09 L x 10.59 H x 18.29 W (inches)
- Package Weight : 2.75 pounds
- Country of Origin : China
- Part number: EMS-LCHW30

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B0050EH004 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #303,746 in Electronics ( See Top 100 in Electronics ) #1,482 in Surge Protectors |
| Brand | Progressive |
| Circuit Breaker Type | Standard |
| Current Rating | 30 Amps |
| Customer Reviews | 4.0 4.0 out of 5 stars (47) |
| Date First Available | May 12, 2011 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 2.85 pounds |
| Item model number | EMSLCHW30 |
| Manufacturer | Progressive Industries |
| Manufacturer Part Number | EMS-LCHW30 |
| Mounting Type | DIN Rail Mount |
| Number Of Poles | 2 |
| Product Dimensions | 18.29"D x 18.29"W x 10.59"H |
| UPC | 818811000092 |
| Voltage | 120 Volts |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Progressive
- **Circuit Breaker Type:** Standard
- **Current Rating:** 30 Amps
- **Mounting Type:** DIN Rail Mount
- **Product Dimensions:** 18.29"D x 18.29"W x 10.59"H

## Images

![Progressive International Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW30 Hardwired RV Surge and Electrical Protector - 30 Amp - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91S49SIqLAL.jpg)

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Have proper tools, Scout out everything before you do anything, Take your time. Not hard to do.
*by B***S on June 30, 2019*

Camper: 2008 Palomino Yearling Y-4125 (aka Pop up camper, aka Tent Camper). Camper Converter: WFCO WF-8725P Ultra III Power Center Product Installed: PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES EMSLCHW30 Surge Protector - the data display is a card internal to the box, not separate. This is not the external unit that you just plug and play to the shore power pole at the campsite. This model has several things about it that I liked better than the other models: 1) Internally installed - can't leave it behind accidently, can't easily be stolen from the shore power pole. 2) The display is internal to the box - no data wires or other box to install The card can be installed in any of 4 90 deg angles (which is a huge plus for the installation site I chose). More on that later. 3) Even though the document mentions an EMS bypass, because it does not have the separate display box/data wire, it also does not have the bypass switch - which quite frankly, why in the heck would you EVER bypass the very thing you want the dang thing to do? 4) Basically you install it, and forget it unless you need to service it or check it- which they have made pretty easy to do as field replaceable units to the box and the display rotates its status about every 15 seconds automatically. So the total time it took me to install (open box, RTFM 3 times, scouting out what where all wires are/go/do/connected BEFORE I did anything, locating the best spot to actually install it), and then actually doing the work installing it was about 1 1/2 hours (including cleanup and test). The WFCO power converter box in my camper is in a compartment under the table and the power cord was directly connected into it on the backside. Easily accessible from the front for all fuse/breaker operations, and all AC/DC wires from the backside. If you see the image I included, the main power cord comes in from the right, so I oriented the box upside down to put the input side closest to that. I had to orient the display 180deg from "normal" so that the data would display as I expect to read it. That is easy to do as the card plugs into the slot in any of 4 positions. Even though the errors code meanings are printed on the front "upside down" by what I did, I only need to look at the display whenever there is a problem, and all I have to do is raise the lid to the compartment and view the display at any time. By putting the box inside the compartment with the converter, I don't have to see the red led lights flash the status data all night long - which quite frankly would be super annoying to me! When I want to see what it is doing, I just raise the lid and look at it and when I don't, I just keep the lid closed. I chose this site because it would be out of the way, out of sight, and had plenty of space around it to "breathe" as it does not have its own fan to keep it cool (like the converter box does). I also removed the jumper to set the time delay to 2 minutes. I would rather have time to diagnose what happened than have it reset after 15 seconds and possibly do it again. The AC/Heat unit I had installed on the camper may or may not have an auto delay, but why chance it? I was able to quickly find out that my 3way fridge uses only 1A, the AC unit uses about 17A at startup, and settles in at about 12 to 14A for normal ops. I only had to add my own 4 wood screws to mount the box to the backside wall of the compartment. I chose to put it up off the floor in case of water leaks, etc. Not including the 4 screws is understandable as the manufacturer has no idea where/how you are going to put it, and they probably don't want to include a bunch of differing kinds of screws, nuts, bolts. So to summarize: Relatively easy to install with just a few tools (wire cutter, wire stripper, assorted screw drivers (flat, phillips, square, crimper, pliers, electrical tape) was all I used. If you scout out where you want it ahead of time, you can get/purchase the necessary 4 attachment devices to do the job. Cons: Only 1. The red led lights are too bright for nighttime and the manufacturer either needs to add a switch to allow the owner to turn them off, or dim them. What I recommend however is a small back lit LCD that displays the same data, but has a small button to control the back light on/off so I can see it at night when I want to and when not on, will not annoy the crap out of folks at night. Like my watch used to have. Now, because I installed mine in an enclosed compartment, it is not a problem for me, but I have read other reviews of this unit (and the one with the separate display box) and almost everyone says that it is annoying. So far, I have used this device to determine that I do not have a "hot skin" condition in my camper. This is the #1 reason I bought it. I did not think I did, but the last time I used the camper, we got low voltage zaps touching the door, and I got the bejesus zapped out of me touching the hot water heater (and it is gas, not electric, and all power to it is DC, nor AC). The camp's service men said they did not have a shore power problem and supposedly checked it out, but the two campsites I used it at before and when I have it plugged up on my 30A circuit on my garage at home, nothing. The camp was completely full that weekend, so I believe that there may have been some feedback from one or another campsite near us. In addition to this unit, I also bought a NCVT (non-contact voltage tester - aka Klein tool) to constantly monitor all metal surfaces of my camper AND my electrical power outlets I use. I already have a multi-meter and a common house AC outlet checker too. I will never leave home without all 3 and will ALWAYS check the shore power boxes BEFORE I connect up again! I will also make sure that ALL of my outdoor power cords are solid and not causing problems either!

### ⭐ failed unit
*by C***S on June 13, 2025*

This unit failed while only using my AC unit drawing 13 to 15 amps. The relay contacts failed and cause excessive heat and internal damage. No response from Progressive Industries when contacting them.

### ⭐⭐⭐ Made in USA as label states, or made in china?
*by T***Y on May 3, 2025*

Great product, but says on unit label that it is made in USA. Yet product details as well as AI Rufus says it is made in china.

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*Product available on Desertcart Sri Lanka*
*Store origin: LK*
*Last updated: 2026-03-05*