RadonSeal Complete DIY Foundation Crack Repair Kit - 10 Ft - Low-Viscosity Urethane Injection Sealant for Crawl Spaces & Concrete Basement Walls, Stops Water Leaks & Radon Gas, Drill-Free Filler

This kit is well-thought out, including from the crucial standpoint of safety (I write safety articles for trade magazines, and, yes, I wear both eye protection and hearing protection when operating a lawn mower). It comes with splash goggles and two pairs of protective gloves. They even tell you about the "trick" of putting on both pairs at the start of the job (something every person who works with paints and epoxies knows to do). The instructions are quite clear and easy to follow. I must admit I didn't quite follow, having gotten a little impatient with the first fill nozzle; instead of using low pressure and waiting as the video and the written instructions said to, I kept pumping. Oops, the stuff cam out that next hole a little too fast! Lesson learned, and easy enough to recover from. My big fear was I'd run out of the resin, but that didn't happen. This kit had exactly enough for the job. This did fix the leak. I waited until after several gully washers, including the worst mother of all rainstorms I have ever seen since living here, to write this review. The patch held up and no water came in. While this kit is pricey, it is worth its price. The savings over hiring a "professional firm" who likely will send a barely trained person to your home to do the job is huge. If you are careful about how you do your work, you will ensure the job is perfect and the leak will be permanently fixed; that's an advantage of this kit. However, I will state that if you're not the kind of person who has some craft capability (works with tools in any way), you probably should not tackle this job (or any other home repair job). The biggest part of any craft job is the preparation. That takes patience, methodology, and attention to detail; things you either learned from personal instruction or just don't get. If you don't have experience doing home repairs, car repairs, computer repairs or other sorts of "pay attention to what you're doing and take the time to do it right" hands-on work then don't attempt this job either. Hire a carpenter or your buddy who likes doing these sorts of things. The kit contains everything you need, except ventilation fans and a grease gun. If you're qualified to do this job, then you already have those things. These folks put a great deal of thought into this product, and that shows in many, many aspects. I can't think of any way to improve on this product. This job went so smoothly for me, I've let the neighbors know I'll be happy to fix their foundations if they need an assist. And, of course, I will insist that this kit be used.

Overall it was great to use. When it comes to the mix that is used to attach the ports and cover the crack I think if you were going to get 10 feet out of it you would have to really use it sparingly. One tip I found that worked really well was to soak the injection tubes in warm/hot water before using. It made it flow really easy into the ports and then into the crack. I would definitely use this again especially where it has everything you need.

Had a hairline crack in basement wall that seeped every time it rained--and it rains a lot in our PA location. Selected Radonseal polyurethane based on a lot of research and the recommendation of a friend who is in heavy construction (highway overpasses, bridges, etc.) He knew exactly what I told him about (Oh yea. We use that @#$% all the time!") A couple of key things I focused on prior to using the product was prepping the wall. I removed all of the material applied by the previous owner (without success), including epoxy paint, hydraulic cement, roofing tar, caulking, and whatever else--about 15 pounds of material from a bulge of repeated attempts. It looked so bad I originally thought the form blew out, only to find he just put more material on top of the old. Took it all the way down to the original poured wall which was flat, including grinding (a mess) to make sure I removed everything that was stuck on from before. I washed the,are with Dawn (a miracle product) dish soap and water, and when that dried, I washed it down with a sponge and rubbing alcohol to get it as clean as possible. In the area where it leaked the most, I took a small concrete drill bit, set the bit two inches from the crack and drilled 45 degrees every eight inches to intersect the crack (I know you don't have to do this, but I thought I could get more of the polyurethane back into the crack. Since the crack was not the entire height of the wall, I figured I would take advantage of the extra nozzles available. Before I started, I made ten 8" X8" mixing boards for the epoxy. You can only use about a 1/2 teaspoon each of the black/white epoxy before it hardens, so better to use less and mix more often. As mentioned by others, the wooden spreaders that come with the kit are too flimsy, so I used plastic knives (picnic utensils) that worked much better. Mixed it up, set the nozzles, then pasted the crack as directed. Waited a full two hours for the epoxy to set. I glued the nozzle to those ports that I had drilled over 2-1/2 feet of the crack, and placed nozzles over the crack as directed. Prior to gluing the nozzles to the wall, I washed it down again with rubbing alcohol, and used a heat gun to get it dry as possible. Used the water bottle provided, and flushed each nozzle and crack from top-to-bottom until clear water flowed. (Note, not all nozzles would communicate to the nozzle below it, but made sure every nozzle took a lot of water (the water is what causes the polyurethane to expand--so don't skimp on the water flushing). I must have used six bottles of water to get al 15 nozzles flushed. I know some people mentioned they had problems with the injection tube leaking. My set up worked flawlessly following the directions provided. Started at the bottom nozzle as directed--figuring a minimum of four (4) minutes at each nozzle. The flex tube attaches very tightly to the nozzle--so that all worked well. At each nozzle I would pump first for 30 seconds, then wait 30 seconds, then pumped again for ~15 seconds until I could no longer pump into the crack. I held constant pressure on the gun the entire time. I figured this would allow the polyurethane to penetrate and begin to set before I pumped again. In some cases I could pump after the second time. In the part of the crack that seeped the most, it took a lot of poly during the first 30 second pump. After the first 30 seconds of pumping and ten waiting 30 seconds, it surprised me at how much more material it would take (I wonder how much poly set up on the outside of the wall?). After the second 30 second pumping it began to be more difficult to pump. Pump 30-Wait 30-Pump 30....and then it tightened-up significantly. I barely got a third pump into the nozzle, and then held pressure on it for about another 2 minutes. Tried to pump again but could not do it. Moved up to the next nozzle. Same process for the next nozzle in the high seep area, but couldn't pump into it for as long as the first, and the poly fluid started to seep from the nozzle above (I considered this good). Finished up the balance of the nozzles, drained all of he hoses, cleaned-up and called it good. I had about 3/4 of a tube remaining that I decided to save in the event I need to repeat the process. Note: I had a couple of nozzles "blow out" at the edge where the nozzle is attached to the wall. Looks as if I did not get the epoxy spread thick enough. Then again, when the poly begins to expand, it's extremely dense and it has to go some where. I also had poly push out the nozzle cap on two nozzles. I thought this was a positive, in that I had enough poly in the crack that it had no where to go but out towards the nozzle (the weakest point). Next day I removed the nozzles and started to remove the epoxy from the crack as shown in the video CD. After about 15 minutes, and a lot of hammering and chiseling, I called it for the day (or life?) Stuff is damn tough to remove, a lot of work, and a huge mess. Cancelled! Done! I thought about grinding it off (for about 10 seconds) but the epoxy dust is not something I want in my home, so that won't happen either. Per the recommendations of other users on here, use the gloves and lay down a large sheet of plastic. As for the gloves. I would put two pairs on at one time, that way when the outside pair gets nasty you just peel them off and the new pair is there. I used a couple of extra sets of gloves (two pairs to apply the epoxy, another two pairs to apply the polyurethane (as you get the polyurethane on your hands when inserting the plug into the nozzle as they drip when you remove the injection tube.) Give yourself plenty of room to work, and take your time. BTW, the epoxy and hardener when mixing is extremely foul-smelling. Make sure you are in an area that is ventilated as it is pretty nauseous. Report after three weeks. We have had three major storms of 3", 2.5" and 2 inches and some minor rains of 1/2" or more. Previously, the wall would have seeped with each and every rain. Since I used the Radonseal product--nothing. No seeping, not even a sweating where the crack is. I can tell you from past experience I would have had some water puddle on the floor, or in the lighter rains some sweating on the crack --but after the treatment, nothing. The wall is completely dry from top to bottom.

Was quoted 2K for two foundation cracks.. After speaking with a friend, he sent a youtube video showing how to do it... It looked relatively easy (I am not a handyman type, more of a computer geek) but I figured I would try... Needless to say, it was easier than I thought and the results were amazing. A few days after completing the repair we had some crazy rain, and all was dry as a bone... VERY HAPPY.

UPDATE... I fixed the cracks a few months ago and we have had some heavy soaking rains. Not one drop of water has leaked from the cracks I repaired. The cracks have been leaking for 25 years and a little river would form in the basement from the leakage..... The basement is officially dry after 25 years.... I bought 2 of these kits to repair to basement wall cracks that have been leaking for over 25 years. The first crack was a major leaker and this kit completely stopped the water problem. On the first crack I had spaced the ports about 8 inches apart and I had somewhat of a harder time to get the material to flow out of the upper port. On the second crack I fixed, I placed the ports 6 inches apart and it was much easier to get the material to flow out of the upper port. Items that need change.. - The epoxy sticks in the second kit were thinner than the first kit, and they broke almost immediately when I tried to remove the epoxy out of the container. - The second container came with a wide spatula and the first kit came with a narrow spatula. The narrow spatula was easier to work with at getting the epoxy around the ports. - I didn't wear the rubber gloves on the first kit I used. I got the material on my hands and it took two weeks for the crack material to wear off my hands. Wear the gloves because this material sticks to your hands like concrete. It will not wash off, it needs to wear off. - I has gotten concerned when the tube only compressed half its length in the caulk gun.... I thought something was wrong. It turns out that the caulk tube has two chambers and it will only compress half its length in the caulk gun... This needs to be mentioned... -I had a 20+ year old caulk gun.... I opened the tube before I placed it in the caulk gun. When I tried to insert the crack repair tube in the caulk gun, the nozzle did not fit. I needed to pry open the end of the caulk gun before the tube nozzle would fit in the gun. Make sure that the cracker sealer tube fits in your caulk gun before you open it... The epoxy sticks very well to the basement wall.. I did chisel it off the wall but it does take some time.... I had several different with chisels and the narrow chisel worked better. Also if you hit the epoxy with a hammer.... the blow from the hammer will crack and loosen the epoxy and it will be a little easier to remove the epoxy from the wall. Just want to let you know that the concrete wall will be a little rough when you chisel away the epoxy. REMEMBER TO WEAR THE SAFETY GLASSES... PIECES OF CONCRETE AND EPOXY WILL FLY... I places some newspapers under the plastic bag to catch the excess material that fell on the floor... This made for a much cleaner job... The material does expand quite a bit and it completely filled the wall crack to the outside of the basement. With the way the material expands, I doubt if these cracks will ever leak again. I did flush the top crack with a spray bottle as they instructed... but I also flushed all the ports with plenty of water to remove any debris in the crack... Bottom line I was very impressed... If you hire someone to fix your cracks in the basement, expect to pay at least $350 bucks per crack... This kit does the same job for a lot less... MAKE SURE YOU TAKE YOUR TIME AND PREP THE WALL CORRECTLY AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS AND WEAR THE GLOVES..