Table Top Epoxy Resin, Crystal Clear 1:1 Protective Coating for Tabletops, Bar Tops, Countertops, Anti-Yellowing UV Resistant, Made in the USA (64 OZ Without Kit)

This resin is awesome. It dries quickly and shiny, clear and bright. I mixed it with white pigment and my project came out amazing. I already purchased another set of these bottles. They cured perfectly.

I have done several countertops using a popular and well-known seller that is a bit more expensive. I wanted to try a cheaper alternative but did not want to give up the quality. I tried this product as an alternative to do an exotic kitchen countertop pour, and I was not disappointed. It is a bit thicker, so it does not cover as easily. I found heating with a hair dryer moved it around quickly though, so I just needed to get used to a slightly different consistency. This stuff is thicker and cures a bit faster, but I actually like that it cures quicker, because I did not have to wait around nearly as long before removing the tape from the edges. Now that I have used it once, I can confidently say it is a good product, it just works slightly differently from what I had used before. No huge differences, it is just thicker and cures a bit faster, but again, that turns out to be a positive. Another benefit I found is that this epoxy has few if any bubbles, and I did stir it with a drill and paint paddle stirrer. I mean few if any bubbles occurred in the epoxy at all. The key to stirring is to keep the paddle in the epoxy and to hit the bottom and sides fully and stir it for a good 3 to 4 minutes. Once you no longer see any of the white streaks, it is thoroughly mixed. I had no soft or sticky spots at all, and it was nice and dry and hard within 20 hours when I went back to check it. The tops were perfect and I'm more than pleased. If you are having problems with soft or sticky spots, you are probably not mixing it properly. Do not be afraid to mix with a drill and paint paddle, as that worked well for me. In the end, I got a beautiful set of counter tops at about half the usual costs. I give it 5 stars for now. I will try and update this later as to how well it holds up but mixing and pouring and the outcome so far are first class! I give it a full 5 stars for now. No smell at all, very clear so far, mixed easily and the colors are perfect.

I bought this product as well as the Liquid Glass version, for a coffee table made out of a tree trunk slice. This was my first project with Epoxy, and the Superclear team was very helpful to answer my newbie questions along the way. They were very friendly and provided great coaching. I will use their products again in the future and I strongly recommend them. I am still working on the project and will add pictures once completed. Here are some suggestions from my own experience: - Choose the right epoxy for the right application. If you are going to do a deep pour (> 1/4") you are going to need either a deep pour epoxy, or several layers of tabletop epoxy. - Have your tools ready (epoxy, mixing container, paint mixing stick, timer, gloves, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol for cleanup, torch for bubbles) and protect your work area because some of the epoxy will spill from the side of your workpiece - Follow the mixing instructions carefully (this product is mixed with a 1:1 volume ratio - I bought some cheap mixing cups -- use a timer and scrape the sides of your mixing container to make sure the product is thoroughly mixed. Failure to do so could result in the product not curing, or not curing evenly) - Check the temperature -- it was cold when I was doing my pours and I had challenges with it, although SuperClear epoxy is very forgiving (bubbles make their way to the surface and they pop). If the wood is cold, it will bubble up when you apply the epoxy (and it will keep bubbling up for hours). I ended up bringing the workpiece into a ventilated room and having a small heater to warm up the room, so that the wood would be at > 70 degrees - Prepare the wood carefully - make sure it is flat and that small holes are filled. A good solution is clear CYA glue (like 2P10) + a CYA activator to dry the glue faster. If you do not do that, the epoxy will go into these holes, and the epoxy top will not be flat. Once the glue is dry, it can be sanded flat with 80 Grits (I use a random orbital sander). If you want, and based on your specific project, you can use a colored CYA glue. - Start with a thin layer of epoxy, to let the wood absorb the epoxy (1 Oz per square foot). Apply the epoxy and then use a torch to blow up the bubbles. More than likely, the absorption of the epoxy will not be even across the wood surface and you will notice all the holes which were not visible before. Epoxy has an uncanny ability to show these holes, due to surface tension. - At this stage, you have 2 options: either you apply the next coat when the first one is still tacky, or you wait for the first coat to cure completely and then sand it with 220 Grits to allow the next coat to bond to the previous coat. If you do so, wear a mask! Epoxy dust is not good for your lungs. Once sanded, the surface will look white. Clean it with a rag, vacuum it and clean again with a wet paper towel to remove any resin powder. That wet finish is what it will look like once the next coat is applied. You are now ready for a second coat, and do not worry too much about sanding marks, as epoxy has a magic ability to hide them. Depending on the imperfections and the size of the holes, you might need to repeat this process until you are ready for your last pour. I have seen some people apply epoxy to just the areas with holes, until they were filled. You can theoretically use CYA glue as well, but it might turn yellow over time so I did not want to take that risk. - The last pour will have 3x the volume of the previous pours. Use a notched trowel to distribute the epoxy, and use your gloves to rub the epoxy onto the sides of your piece. Use the torch to remove the bubbles, and ideally cover your piece while it dries, so that you do not get pet hair or specks of dust into your epoxy (I am still struggling with that speck-free finish, to be honest). The larger pour volume will cover the last remaining imperfections, leading do a beautiful, flat, glossy finish. - If you need to protect the bottom side of your piece from epoxy drips, apply painters tape to the bottom side (just around the periphery), and once the top is fully cured, turn the piece upside down and use a heat gun to soften the epoxy drips and remove the painters tape. - If you need to fill larger holes, then you might need deep pour epoxy, and you will need to make sure that the hole does not go through the other side of the piece. If it does, you can use packing tape to mask the hole on the bottom side. You might also need wood (MDF covered with packing tape works well) to keep the epoxy from running. Also, you can apply a bead of silicone around the hole on the top side, so that you can overpour the epoxy on that side, to allow for some settling. See videos online for more advice. I hope this helps!

Not my favorite. I ordered this brand before but ordered the countertop clear epoxy. Love, love, love that one. It is so easy and goes down so beautifully. This one produced way too many bubbles. I only mix this one manually and was careful not to produce too many bubbles. Even when mixing it there were airborne bubbles coming out of the bucket like it was soap bubbles. The consistency is thicker and a little harder to work with. I achieved a bubble free pour using a heat gun but it wasn’t as easy to get rid of them as the countertop epoxy one. I ordered this one on accident, but there are no returns so I had to proceed with this one. The smell seems a bit stronger too. Cure time was a little faster than the countertop epoxy as well.