Performance ToolW80559 Strut Spring Compressor

Worked for my need but was a little difficult to keep spring evenly compressed so that it is easy to remove compressor once spring is in place on car.

If you need this type of compressor, it works good. Used on front coils on a 65 Mustang without issue or drama. Make sure this type of compressor is what you need for the project you have.

My car did not have the engine when I changed the coil springs. Used the bolt and the bottom threaded hook only. Placed the bolt in the shock mount at the top and connected the bottom hook by hand until I got a good spot. Used a chain for added safety by threading it in the middle of the spring and down through the lower control arm and back out to hook it. This is something a friend of mine showed me and added safety is not a bad thing considering the extreme tension. After that I used a ratchet to compress the spring and used a 3 ton jack below the lower control arm once I had enough clearance. Once the spring was installed I removed the bolts from the bottom hook which made removal much easier. Go slow and be careful.

Some of the other reviews have criticized this product because it has two lips instead of just one on each end and when they used it, they only had one lip in contact on each end. IMO they are using it wrong. Single lip compressors (more common type) should have the bolt parallel to the spring. However, I rotated the Spring Compressor slightly (perhaps 10 degrees) so that both lips made contact with the spring at end eand, with the heads of the bolts being 180 degrees apart and the bottoms also being 180 degrees apart. This will look like they are slightly twisted from the top, but in the same direction. The springs compressed just fine and stayed in alignment. I had to use wrenches to turn the bolts to get them off the car. Once the spring is off the car, I used a small impact wrench with 1/2" drive to loosen the compressors, alternating each side about every half inch. I then used the impact wrench to compress the new springs, again 1/2 inch at a time. If you try to use a wrench to compress the new spring, you will find it very hard to hold onto the spring while tightening the compressors. Look at the bottom of the spring to see how it fits into the bottom holder and make sure you have the new spring aligned the same when you compress it. The spring has to be aligned in a particular way to fit the bottom pad and the compressors have to be aligned in a certain way to provide clearance for wrenches. I write all this because I think this is a good product that some of the other comments have downgraded because they didn't use it properly.

As another review stated for an older Ford... I was only able to make this work by cutting 4" off for my 1966 Ford Mustang GT.

Removed coil springs on a 1970 Ford Maverick to install new suspension and lowering springs. I had to dismantle the Spring Compressor and build inside the coil spring. A process that tried my patience and dexterity. I also had to add a 4” sleeve to the top of the bolt otherwise when tightening down it would prematurely bottom out on the control arm. Once I figured it out the second spring was much easier to remove. Good tool, would recommend.

I used this on a 93 s10 2wd. I had to add some 5 or 6 3/4" nuts as spacers in lieu of cutting the main shaft down. Did the job, though!

Was a little cheaper than other options our there and worked well

This comment is not specific to Amazon , it is directed to all sellers of this type of spring compressor. The maximum coil diameter recommended is 5 5/8", it is not written on the product description or on the outside of the storage case, you will only find it on the instruction card once you have unsealed the case. On my car the spring O.D. was close to 7 inches, I decided to chance it. What happened is the spring grippers kept trying to go off center witch is potentially a dangerous thing. I managed but it was a little stressful, I thought you should know, otherwise the tool is of good quality.

Si tu coche tiene resortes pequeños, no podrás comprimirlos lo suficiente para poder remover el amortiguador. En mi caso es de un Subaru Legacy 2005.El diseño hace que sea difícil de montar el compresor de manera que no pierdas acceso a las tuercas para apretar. Batallé mucho para montarlo solo para que al final la compresión sea tan poca.

Blow mold case keeps things in one place. Quality is reasonable for a 'cheap' tool. Fairly beefy construction.Could use thrust bearings under the nuts, but probably not going to happen at this price point. Just make sure to use an EP lube on the threads, and the contact surfaces.If you have tight spacing on your coils like I did, you'll probably have to dismantle it, and tip the cast parts on edge to get them between the coils. Then reassemble the threaded rod. Do your compression, then disassemble again to remove them.

Worked great on the old and new additions in my 87 GN, needed to add a pipe because if the way g body top mounts are there is no hole to pass through, but worked amazing, a tool I can trust. Don't forget to lube the threads before using!!!

It actually works! I've had bad experiences with discount hardware store variety spring compressors breaking the hooks & bending the bolt. This one didn't do that! In general, it is good practice to lubricate the threads of these high torque bolts (in these and things like pullers, presses, etc). Happy with my purchase, and good price.