Blue Demon 308LFC-O X .035 X 1# Spool stainless steel flux cored gasless welding wire

Using on 304 stainless exhaust pipe and works great. Tried another brand/type of flux core and it smoked and spattered like crazy, this stuff has minimal of either. Also seems to join just fine to mild steel (i.e. steel mufflers)

I was skeptical about this product, but since getting gas here in Orlando is expensive, I thought I'd try this out. It all boils down to your setting. I have a small Lincoln ProMig 140. Nothing special at 110V. After trial and error, I found that this wire feeds best at speed 4.5, maybe 5 out of 10, which is fairly fast. The puddle works best welding straight at the bead and not at an angle or pulling/pushing the weld, and letting the puddle just run and melt as you go fast. I have my welder turned all the way up to D setting for maximum power. Keeping the gun right on the weld, using a fast straight-line motion without stopping works best. I find that if you go slower, it will burn holes in your SS. If you go power bang lower than the highest, it WILL NOT penetrate... so fast and hot is the only way to go. You're not gonna lay down dimes with this unless you have A LOT of patience... but that being said, with a PRECISE hand and a steady motion, you can weld stainless steel using this just fine. DIrty welds aren't that big of a problem. Nothing an angle grinder can't take care of.This wire actually make an interesting puddle and if you get the hang of it, you can actually make a pretty frigging nice weld with it. Like I said, it's not going to win any prizes in the esthetics department, but after getting the hang of this wire, my welds are surprisingly strong. Don't listen to bad reviews of this wire. PRECISION and PATIENCE, and you have a good product!!!REVISION 1 @ 12/02/2019 - I ordered another spool yesterday and when it arrived, it looked like half the spool was already gone. Check out the pics side by side; Looks not even close to the amount in the listing picture! Is that normal because it's based on weight?? Dunno!!

As indicated in an earlier review. Turn up the voltage, turn down the wire speed. I have a Century GS125 with a 4000 uf capacitor added to the output.With the wire speed "slightly" above 1 and voltage set at 4, this wire will lay dimes on exhaust. I welded pipes and brackets. Works great. Tested it on scrape to "dial in the sizzle" and get an idea of how fast you need to move the wire. It is a thick wire and will clump if you "delay".Remember "Electrode Positive". Positive on the stinger. It's a 180 from normal operations with carbon steel FO wire.The wire is fragile, but I did not have any problem pushing it thru the stinger. I'm guessing the reduced wire speed helps.I purchased .035 contact tips. Turns out if you have .030 installed and have run some steel FO thru it the .035 stainless will glide thru.I used a .8 mm roller. I don't have a .9/.035 roller. It did not seem to affect using the product.The other mod to the welder is a thirty amp Ametherm NTC Thermistor for Inrush Current Limiting. It keeps me from tripping the 15 amp breaker and gives the diodes a chance to dump in the capacitors and not blow up. Doesn't appear to affect the overall power of the welder. Testing with thicker material, I would guess you could weld 1/4" stainless, non-structural, with multiple passes. Little slag and the second pass seems to stick well.Its a honey!

The wire worked as advertised. Regardless if the fact that I was using the entirely wrong size wire (.035) for welding ~16gauge 308, is obvious to me that the wire can work. Although I never got it to run a smooth bead on my Millermatic 211 (220v), I kept trying, with constant power and feed adjustments firstly, welding such thin material, some of my best results were achieved when moving quickly enough to push into the puddle with enough heat to cause the electrode to sort of "flash" into the booger left before it. Eventually, I got a number of smooth beads running, but only just in time to burn through my material.I imagine that 1/4" material would come out really great, especially for lap welds. I think that butt welds would be made decent looking, but you would probably blow through the material every few inches if not careful.I think the majority of the difficulty working with this wire is related to the mistaken thought that this wire should be in any way similar to mild steel flux cored. It runs completely differently. I'm guessing that the amount of heat necessary to melt the wire is so different than the amount of heat that the material needs to start pudding, that is just difficulty finding a medium.All in all, the welds may look catawampus, but the wire cures super hard, so weld strength shouldn't likely be an issue. As a matter of fact, be sure not to deposit too much material, as grinding too much of this stuff might frustrate you.(please see attached photos for an explanation of adjustment difficulty, and keep in mind that using incorrect .035 wire for 16gauge 308ss caused the majority of adjustment issues. If I purchase the .030, I will retest, likely with great results)

This is easier to weld with than normal mild steel. Good product and will buy again!

Purchased this to make a grill grate frame for our new fire pit. Used it with a Harbor Freight/Chicago Electric EasyMIG 100, max amperage and feed setting of 3. I'm an amateur welder, but it still did very well. I wish there was a little better penetration, but a slightly slower feed rate may have helped with that. I was using ¼" thick stock, but it's light duty, so what I did get will be fine. The hardest thing was getting the spool loaded. As other reviews mentioned, the wire wants to unwind. Trying to get it fed into the welder without unwinding was difficult, but I managed to get it done. I don't know how easy it would be to weld vertically, but horizontal wasn't bad. Overall, I was impressed with the product (and the welder since it was from Harbor Freight) and I'm excited to use the grill I made.