Clean AIR® Premium Foaming Automotive Evaporator Coil Cleaner (Lemon) - Renew Your Air Conditioner and Enjoy a Comfortable Driving Experience Today (single 8.oz)

I have been looking for an effective cleaner for the coil in my car. I used another brand before, but it only worked for a couple of days. I came across DWD2 and decided to give it a try. It was more expensive than the other brand I used, I was not sure if I was going to get the same results as before, but decided to buy it.The item arrived quickly. I read the instructions, and the application was a bit different than the other one. I liked the scent it emanated once I started releasing it in the system. A bit of foam was coming out of the vents. I shut of the vents to prevent the foam from spilling inside the car. I turned off the AC, and let the foam go back down. After about 5 minutes, I turned on the AC and opened the vents. a little bit of foam started coming out again. I let it ran for 15 minutes, and the foam went away.It has been three days, and the nice scent is still there. So far so good.

I've left this vehicle in storage for years because of this odor issue. I had assumed that a family of mice moved into the duct work of the car and died. During a service visit on another vehicle the service manager suggested I try this product and he was right, within minutes the odor issue was gone.

I tried several products to get rid of the bad AC smell in my MB e-class (2016) and this product worked very well. Just remove the cabin air filter and inject the foam while the AC system is running (empty the whole can per the instructions). Also point the hose nozzle into the evaporator coil area. Let it rest for 15 min, install the cabin filter and let the AC run again for 5 min. done

Worked where dealer ion treatment failed. Had to do this twice before foul odor went away and did not return in a week.

I bought this product in good faith because they hyped it at “easy to use” with a patented delivery system. I didn’t realized “patented” meant I would have to compromise the integrity of the housing to install a complicated applicator.I am not drilling through a panel and using the tiny pin (cap) to close the hole when done. That seems beyond sketchy and those caps aren’t 100% leak free. God forbid you have trouble in the future, water is going to come out. There’s no gasket around that little pin either to insure it’s sealed.That pin is designed for outside trim. If it IS used, then a rubber gasket goes behind the pin and then the pin holds it to the vehicle. The pin doesn’t hold the water from entering. I know because I broke one and I’m actually replacing it right now and they are almost identical.HEADS UP; most of these housings are higher up under the dash, where you really need to drill, and you won’t be able to get a drill LEVEL when drilling. That means the cap isn’t going to seat 100% properly to plug that hole. It’ll be seated at an angle.If you drill low, you have a GOOD possibility of drilling close enough to the drain pan that hold the condensed run off. Blockage issues or not, that pan DOES hold water in the summer. It collects the condensed run off, then the drain tube allows it so flow away.If you have problem with hearing water sloshing around or floorboard is wet, then you are holding water. Again, if you drill tooooo low then the water has a good chance of coming out that little pin (plug).You could potentially damage the housing because the manufacture happened to put one of the structural fins on the back side that you hit!!! Can’t always tell if it’s there by just tapping your finger to see. Pin won’t seat there properly either.Just tested it on some parts I have off the vehicles. Vibration from tapping is the exact same as no fin, so you would have the same results with this housing.THEN that little pin isn’t going to seat properly and you’ll now be replacing the housing!!!! Regardless…. There won’t be any way to seal it, outside of using duct tape, and don’t think anyone wants that.Replacing that housing is quit costly. Have a GL450 and that housing is pretty expensive, plus I’d have to tear apart the ENTIRE dash.Lord knows they won’t cover the cost of replacement and installation, because that’s not their fault you hit something, or “didn’t follow instructions” as I’m sure they would claim.You REALLY need to unclog the drain, which is the main issue, and the reason you are in this pickle to start with. Once you easily clear the drain tube, there are many products that have 3ft hoses that you just insert into that drain tube. No compromising, drilling, ripping apart the dash or using a trim pin to plug the hole you just drilled.There’s several well reviewed products, that have been tested and tried and true for a long time, that have LONG tubes to easily feed through the center vent to coat the coil easily, if you can’t get to the drain. Won’t unclog the drain tube 100%, but neither will this. So again, you’re really back at square one.Personal opinion, by not allowing it to soak, it doesn’t have time to penetrate and weaken the bond to flow out. Good example, soap technically doesn’t CLEAN your hands. It only weakens the bond of the bacteria on your hand, so you can rinse it away. Antibacterial soap you have to use vigorously for at least 5 minutes depending on strength.If all this product does is run a mist of a bacterial cleaner and isn’t aimed at dissolving the residue;If you don’t attack the residue, then you’ll have to constantly chase the smell. Pull your filters, turn it on coldest temp on max, let it start to condense, and just spray Lysol through the air intake! Done. $3-4 per can and a lot more liquid and spray time. Tons of videos on YouTube. Obviously anything has risks, so do that at your discretion.Since receiving this product, I’ve now asked certified Mercedes mechanics, and they’ve read the instructions. According to pros, per the instructions supplied, running it THROUGH the system won’t clean it. It needs to full be immersed and soak in order to properly break down the funk and residue build up. For the majority of the processes of this product, it’s just running through your coils into the vents. Again, you can also use Lysol for this process, for touch ups between cleanings.It is newer GL450, but I have OCD and do detail work and have maintenance done religiously. I make sure problems don’t have a chance to build up. I do this process every 6 months to make sure there’s no air quality issues for my family and I, from bacteria and residue build up.I’ve cleaned numerous times with soaking cleaner products described early, and have never had a problem, and they’re much less complicated, and WAY cheaper. I’m off to AutoZone to correct my costly mistake of purchasing this.That cleaner is also natural and bio friendly, so there’s no advantage with this product vs that one. You’ll have to ask for it, because they don’t keep it out. PLUS that product is only $7 and attacks the cause of your problems in the 1st place.Side note; don’t listen when people tell you to turn up the heat to “cook” or “blast” any bacteria you have… temp has to be above 140 for bacteria to be destroyed properly, and your car heater won’t even come CLOSE to that. Salmonella does die off with low heat, but if you’re putting raw chicken into your AC coils, you my friend…. have bigger problems!

kind of a pain drilling the hole for the tube.

cleaned out my ac condensation hose.

I like the delivery system of this product. Injects the product directly into the AC system unlike other products I've tried out there. The products goes into all the crevices in the coils while the AC is on and the air blower is on high. I think this delivery technique is the best I've tried. Also the natural enzyme formula is a great plus it gets the AC system clean of nasty odor causing bacteria. I will definitely buy more in the future!