🚗 Make Some Noise, Drive with Confidence!
The Piaa85110 Sports Horn delivers an impressive 115 dB sound at dual frequencies of 400 Hz and 500 Hz, enhancing your vehicle's safety and presence on the road. With a universal fit and a sleek design, this horn is perfect for any motorist looking to make a statement while driving.
Brand | Piaa |
Color | Black |
Style | Slim 112dB (Pack of 2) |
Noise Level | 115 dB |
OEM Part Number | 85110 |
Manufacturer | VAAE7 |
UPC | 722935851105 022935851106 |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00722935851105 |
Model | 85110 |
Item Weight | 1 pounds |
Country of Origin | Japan |
Item model number | 85110 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Exterior | Painted |
Manufacturer Part Number | 85110 |
A**.
Loud quality , you get what you pay for.
Surprisingly loud!Holding each in my hand & applying 13 volts one at a time they are a bit louder than the FARBIN I also have.They pull about 2-2.5 amps and the farbin mentioned pull about 4 amps.I'm using relay to be safe and running all 4 at once!But It's obvious though you should not need a relay if running only the piaa pair.I have the 400 - 500hz which is perfect & plenty alarming! If you choose 500 - 600hz ppl say it sounds like a European sports car "not what I want"The problem with going too far off the map in sound frequency (ie: using a train airhorn etc) is that the other driver will be confused as to which vehicle it's coming from.So imo good to stay fairly close in pitch but just go louder.The stock horns on a RAV4 are a joke maybe 50 percent bigger than a silver dollar!This is an easy solution without messing with relays.....(only 5 amps together) you may could run both these and stock in parallel but you'll be close to your max amps of 10 without a relay.Some have used a 15 amp fuse running 4 together and only using in short burst may be ok otherwise your chancing melting your wiring harness unless you keep your 10 amp fuse. Those wires are pretty tiny that run to the horn on a RAV4 !
M**V
Much louder than my stock Jeep Wrangler Horns!
I assume from the other reviews of this product here and around the net that these will fit and work on most cars, but my review will focus on my experience installing them on my '97 Jeep Wrangler.My twelve year old Jeep Wrangler horns sounded pathetic. I don't know if they sound like that when new (I bought my '97 in 2005), but even at seven years of age, those horns sounded weak and were pretty embarrassing to use.I considered going with the higher frequency version of these horns, but after listening to both frequencies on Youtube videos (just seach "PIAA 115db"), I decided that a real American Jeep (well, made in Canada) needed a "REAL-American" sounding horn, so I stuck with this classic sounding horn, rather than going with the sound of the higher frequency version option (which would be a good choice for import vehicles).I'd say that this horn has pushed my horn volume to at least stock, if not 10-20% louder than stock, of a fresh Jeep Wrangler horn (which my neighbor has on her 2009 Wrangler).Install/Technical Notes:Assuming you have some basic hand tool skills, have a a couple of pair of vice grips, a wire striper/crimper, a volt-meter, a few .5"-1" long, 1/4"ish wide bolts with nuts & washers and perhaps a 14-16ga female wire connector splay ends, you should be able to swap these out with your current Jeep horns in about and hour. I'm sorry, but It's been a while so I don't recall exactly what came with the horn kit, but I think it included a few auto-crimps that might work as well, if your not willing to do the job "right", speaking as an off-roading jeep "fan-boy" who has built-up his jeep correctly with his own two hands.I noticed that the horn body widths, as well as the horn mouths, were moderately larger than the stock horns on the Jeep, but they were the same basic design (that's good news). The horn mouths also had plastic sheilds covering the opening which the stock horns didn't have, but that seems like a good idea to keep the new horn internals from getting splashed with water over the next decade of use. Though I was concerned about how I was going to mount these to start with, I found that I could use the existing horn mounting brackets of my Jeep if I just bent the horn brackets (those that are on these new horns) 180 degrees back onto themselves at the middle of horn using two pairs of vice grips (The original Jeep horns do not have that bracket you see sticking out on the stock photo of the horn, but instead simply mount directly to the Jeep's horn mounting brackets at the center of the stock horn body via a post and nut solution, which is not doable with these new horns due to a shorter and wider post (ah heck, see the photos I posted if you can't figure out what the heck I'm talking about!)After insuring I was getting the power and ground wires connected to right posts on the horns, they worked just fine on the first try. You don't really need to remove horn mounting brackets from the Jeep like I ended up doing; you'll just need to adjust the angle of the new horns a bit to insure that they don't make contact with any of the surround jeep parts before you tighten them down.As I recall, the instructions which came with these horns were very clear and provided different wiring diagrams for different potential wiring solutions. This made it very easy to figure out that I did not need to add a new ground wire for the Jeep... just use the two wires per each horn as the stock jeep horns use.While these horns do not provide an air-horn level of volume, they do provide the same general design and mounting as the stock Jeep horns, with the same or better durability and volume than stock, without the hassle and time required to install less durable air-horns and compressors. That makes this a true winner solution for REAL Jeeps used for their designed purpose of off-pavement travel.Highly Recommended for Jeep Wranglers!
A**H
Plug and Play for 2016 Subaru Forester Touring 2.5i
I did plenty of research on these horns; subaru forums, all the amazon reviews. I found these horns are truly plug and play with absolutely no stripping, splicing, or altering to factory wires. No blowing of fuses either, as the I believe the amps are less than stock horns. This particular year of Subaru model comes with 2 horns; one behind the passenger side front bumper (midway up), and the center horn is right behind the grill. Some people like to cut off the adapter to the passenger side horn and extend the wire to mount behind the grill (with the other horn). I really didn't want to mess with that, so I just used the original factory brackets/locations for both horns. Not going to lie, the passenger horn area was a bit difficult to reach and maneuver in; although it can be done. I just had a few nuts and bolts left over in my toolbox that you could practically mount anywhere in that area. The only limitation on placement is the short length of factory wire that you would end attaching to new horn. Just mount the ground wire (provided with the new horn) to any part of the chassis, and you are done. My wife says this new horn sounds like a normal horn now. If you know about the original subaru horns, you know they are a joke. These horns have a perfect tone. I was originally looking at the super bass tones, but thought those didn't "match up" quite well with a smaller SUV. This is no wimpy horn. Highly recommend!
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